1995 300Tdi EGR removal

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CYANIDE-2600

CYANIDE-2600

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Location
Bradford.
Okay, so I ordered from eBay a blanking plate complete with gasket and 2 allen screws (not bolts, as screws are threaded all the way :p )
In total including postage it was exactly £9 from disco-compatible parts.
Not a bad price if it does the trick me thought, BUT, having seen a guide on how to do it online from difflock, it looks like there is ALOT of sludge that will be present in the intake. I know to clean out the pipe I can soak it in degreaser and blast it out and so on, but how on earth can I remove as much of that gunk as possible without having to strip major components from the engine? It looks like a coal miners ear lug. Absolutely sludgy slimey oily black gunge! :(
No wonder the car smokes occasionally and seems to lack power!
Tips on how to get the most of the stuff out much appreciated!
 
No easy way to fix this catastrophically stupid mess.

The people who invented and specified EGR systems should be made to spend the rest of their miserable lives cleaning dirty manifolds.

Once you have done it, you will be well pleased.

CharlesY
 
CharlesY said:
No easy way to fix this catastrophically stupid mess.

The people who invented and specified EGR systems should be made to spend the rest of their miserable lives cleaning dirty manifolds.

Once you have done it, you will be well pleased.

CharlesY
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I checked the Haynes manual and it doesn't look too much trouble to remove the air intake completely so will order a new gasket for refitting and a new silicone hose to replace the inlet pipework. Should be alright if I clean the inlet with an alkaline based degreaser wouldn't it? (I know you can't use caustic soda as it melts aluminium, as a friend of mine found out using it on his V8... hahaha)
 
Boatboy said:
I have been looking at these..

Landrover Discovery 300Tdi EGR Blanking Kit + Hose on eBay, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (item 230159593754 end time 17-Aug-07 09:32:44 BST)

Is this the best way to go.....
Click to expand...
For the money it's very good, you got a hose and the blanking plug, unless you want to spend about £40 alone on a silicone hose for it, which will last longer that the standard rubber, but the rubber has a damn long life anyway, so I'd say get the £16.99 one off ebay, they use decent blanking plate material too. :)
 
I just bought that kit off ebay and was looking at all the horrible sludge too. Guess it's an intake manifold off and maybe try some "Gunk" engine cleaner unless that's not recommended, and a jet wash (just to gain popularity with Mr Mondeo Man waiting to clean his already clean car).:D
 
If you remove the intake you MUST use a new gasket. Order one from the Land Rover supermarket (Land Rover Accessories & Spare Parts) as their much cheaper than a main dealer. Degreaser / jizer or concrete whitner works well on diesel gunk and oil as does parrafin (a good cheap option)
Don't use caustic soda, or a jetwash.
 
Looks like Part No ERR3785, which is combined exhaust and inlet manifolds gasket, so both off I guess - hiho. Only joking :D about the jet wash by the way, I get all my waste off to the council to send to some people to spin in a centrifuge and reuse it - at least I hope that's what they do...it bloody better be.

Be interested to keep this thread going as to your findings with regard to performance and fuel efficiency. I've just filled up so will be watching my mpg but have not as yet cleaned said manifold. Seems to have better low end torque but it might be my imagination.

Good luck with it.
 
what about EGR removal on a EDC discovery ?

is it the same as the non edc engines
I did my old 300tdi about 5 years ago and it made a slightly noticable difference also removed the cat and adjusted the fuel pimp timing to the non egr setting.Economy wasnt improved but the drive was
 
johnny5 said:
what about EGR removal on a EDC discovery ?

is it the same as the non edc engines
I did my old 300tdi about 5 years ago and it made a slightly noticable difference also removed the cat and adjusted the fuel pimp timing to the non egr setting.Economy wasnt improved but the drive was
Click to expand...

I've never experienced an EDC 300Tdi as their not an official UK market model. Though I think there is reference to it in the Haynes manual, which I could look up if you like? As far as I'm aware though, if it does have an EGR valve, remove it, it will be the same as it'll do the same thing, the EDC is Electronic Diesel Control which I think is just a different fuel injection method which constantly monitors load and adjusts injection timing to suit, but I am not sure. But anything dumping exhaust gasses into an inlet will cause less power so removing it will be better, if it has one.
 
dumping the egr valve isnt a problem
neither is dimping the cat and fitting a K&N filter
but the EGR non EGR and EGR EDC models all have different pump timing and Im not sure if using the non EGR timing will be the right thing to do ????
 
f**k me what a difference! AND I HAVEN'T PUT A NEW INTAKE PIpE ON OR CLEANED THE GUNK OUT YET!! Just fitted a blanking plate on and left pipework for now, DEFINATELY notice a difference, a hill I normally take in 3rd was managed in 4th. from tickover it just kept on pulling :D
 
Just to clarify on the hose, if I replace the valve but not the top hose what do I do with the small pipe that joins the top hose to the EGR and what do I do with the vacuum pipe from the EGR to a box at the front of the car?

Thanks,

Mike
 
mmarks said:
Just to clarify on the hose, if I replace the valve but not the top hose what do I do with the small pipe that joins the top hose to the EGR and what do I do with the vacuum pipe from the EGR to a box at the front of the car?

Thanks,

Mike
Click to expand...

Well at the moment I didn't take the origional hose off yet, until you buy a straight hose to go to the inlet from the intercooler you can still keep the standard hose in place.
Instead of removing the EGR from the exhaust manifold just disconnect the flange at the EGR side of the braided pipe, from the passenger side of the car looking straight at the EGR valve, you see the braided hose? Remove the 2 bolts that connect this hose to the EGR valve (You will need a 10mm socket and a small extension bar and a ratchet). With these bolts removed, gently move away that end of the braided pipe and using a small knife remove the old gasket which will be stuck to the EGR flange, using a new paper gasket at the EGR side (you'll see why in a minute) put the EGR blanking plate in here. Basically block off the EGR outlet so no exhaust gasses get to the inlet pipe. You can reuse the old bolts to fasten it up but I recommend 5mm longer ones. Basically you need to have the EGR valve in place, to the EGR valve where described fit a paper washer, the 4mm blanking plate, then the braided pipe fitted back on, this is how I have blocked mine for now, and it makes a big difference, then when you buy a new straight through pipe for £20 off eBay you can then use the blanking plate to cover the hole in the manifold where the EGR will be removed. I hope I made it clear, if you are in any doubt I shall take a picture for you.
 
ive got a jap import with edc can i just blank off the egr and leave everything else connected ?????
 
Good result Cyanide-2600. I thought I too was getting more bottom end torque but thought I might be imagining it. I wonder if your EGR valve was stuck open for you to feel such a marked difference. Did you notice if it was stuck open?

I haven't cleaned the inlet manifold either but did replace the intake pipe to a straight through one.
 
Some Guy said:
Good result Cyanide-2600. I thought I too was getting more bottom end torque but thought I might be imagining it. I wonder if your EGR valve was stuck open for you to feel such a marked difference. Did you notice if it was stuck open?

I haven't cleaned the inlet manifold either but did replace the intake pipe to a straight through one.
Click to expand...

My valve wasn't stuck open, but was well sooted up as expected, I'm going to completely remove it soon as opposed to just using a blanking plate, slowly but surely will get Twisted Performance to get it up to 220BHP. Definately though blanking it off gives a marked improvement.
 
I've been trying to ascertain as objectively as possible the difference it's made and the main thing I can definately say is that the engine doesn't labour at low revs as before. Even with a pretty heavy (1.5t) trailer at low revs it pulls - perhaps not more strongly - but doesn't complain and vibrate half as much as before, I can hang in a gear longer before feeling I really have to shift down.

I'll be filling up soon so will be able to post my preliminary mpg findings.

I should add that I now have a lovely uncluttered manifold side to the engine bay and am sure I will find that helps when I rip the CAT out.
 
Dont forget to clean your intercooler out as well,also your inlet manifold shares it,s gasket with the exhaust manifold when you come to change it.
By the way just to trigger the debate further to those who completely remove their EGR Valve. How about letting your insurance know you have fitted a performance enhancing mod :rolleyes: ,which they will be able to see with very little problem.Leaving the valve in with the blanking plate does not look as obvious ;) .
 
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