Freelander 2 (LR2) Front suspension judder

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Freddie17

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Ok, so as posted elsewhere, I recently had the f/o/s suspension spring snap. These things happen in colder weather on older cars, and more likely for me as I do a fair bit of off-road driving in it too.

I renewed both sides, with complete new struts, springs, bump stops, bearings and top plates - the whole works. I also took the opportunity to renew both front lower arms, as these had to come off anyway, along with new drop links and new TRE’s. (I’d rather refresh/replace it if it’s coming off as it’s not getting any younger). I also had an issue with the n/s driveshaft removal, so I replaced that rather than faff around.

I have a friend who built the suspension struts up for me using a proper compressor machine at a workshop.

Had a few issues fitting it, as always;
Broke a bolt on the o/s top mount (the small m8’s that go in from under the bonnet. That was once it was all back in 😡, so managed to carefully drill that out and save the threads 😁. New bolt fitted.

n/s spring was kissing the inner arch once refitted, when turning the wheel. Thought it might just be slightly twisted under compression, or not quite sat right, so used a long lever to persuade it over and after a small jolt it sat correctly. 😁


* It has not yet been 4-wheel aligned… I only finished the build-up yesterday.


On road test, I have a ‘judder’ under hard acceleration. It’s NOT road-speed related, nor engine-speed related, only on hard acceleration in 1st and 2nd, then tails off;
Double checked the strut lock-nuts (as I didn’t do these up myself). Ok.
Took both front wheels off, checked the brake shields were not touching (as it looks in photos). And to also double check the wheels were not lose!
Pulled the Haldex fuse and road tested again (It feels a little like an extended scrabble, but I’ve had the scrabble mod done to my Haldex controller). Not that - issue still there.
Plugged in SDD to check for any fault codes - all clear (was thinking maybe an ABS sensor throwing the system into a fit).

My conclusions are that the judder is occurring only when the weight is ‘lifted’ from the front end upon harder acceleration, and goes once the car resettles and normal acceleration resumes. Therefore, likely it’s something in the suspension that is pretty much ‘ok’ with all the weight on, but is getting thrown out ever-so-slightly when the weight is transferred off.

Cue the wheel alignment and my fingers being crossed before I look any further!

Will update.
 
IMG_3844.jpeg
IMG_3843.jpeg
 
Any wheel balancing weights come off?
All the relevant bolts tightened up with the car on the floor, may be worth a double check they are tight.
 
As one spring was not seated, worth putting a camera up.and checking that they are all seated as a reduced load (Acceleration) could cause them to vibrate if not in seats correctly.
 
Any wheel balancing weights come off?
All the relevant bolts tightened up with the car on the floor, may be worth a double check they are tight.
Wheel balancing issues would be present at any speed presumably.
Double-checked all bolts as I went 👍
 
As one spring was not seated, worth putting a camera up.and checking that they are all seated as a reduced load (Acceleration) could cause them to vibrate if not in seats correctly.
I did look at the springs before they went in. Seemed to be in the correct seating positions on the struts. Also checked that the tabs on the bearings were lined up with the locator at the bottom of the struts.

My thoughts are that the spring kissing the arch just had a twist in it perhaps.
 
Update;
4 wheel alignment completed 😁

Judder still there 🙄😡

Guys doing the work couldn’t see anything obvious.

Have today nipped up the strut clamp bolt (behind the knuckle) and also nipped up the driveshaft nut. Still there.

I think the issue is n/s related, as when you turn left and apply power in low gears (so transfer the weight off the f/n/s), the judder is worse. That is the side that had the spring levered over. Wondering now if the strut top nut needs nipping up further. When I checked them yesterday, it was quite a rudimentary check.

That requires the wipers off and scuttle back out again, and also a socket adapting so it can be wrenched with a large spanner whilst an Allan key is placed through the center to stop the strut shaft from turning.
 
Clue might be n/s driveshaft and n/s causing vibration.

Could be a bad shaft fitted, made out of line or not balanced properly ?!?!
 
Clue might be n/s driveshaft and n/s causing vibration.

Could be a bad shaft fitted, made out of line or not balanced properly ?!?!

The guy doing the alignment mentioned it ‘might’ be that.
Another fitter I know (who built the struts up for me) said it was possible, but unlikely - he’d only known of 1 bad shaft out the box.

Also possibly the hub.

I’m just regrouping my thoughts before making the next plan.
 
Got the go-pro on the n/a wheel this morning. Doesn’t give much away really, other than the new strut ‘looks’ like it’s doing what it should be doing, and I can;t see anything untoward or loose.

So pointing towards the new driveshaft being faulty, or hub issue.

 
It’s got me, as if it were the driveshaft or the hub, I would have expected the judder/wobble to be felt under all conditions (?), but I’m only getting it on hard acceleration, when the weight is transferred off the front.

Once the weight transfer back to normal driving conditions, there is nothing noticeable.
 
Update;
Given that I have not touched the hub (appreciate it ‘could’ be damaged), and there is no noticeable wobble when rocking the wheel left/right or up/down, I’m ruling that out at present.

Given that I’ve also double-checked the struts and all bolts etc., I’m assuming they are correct.

So going with the working theory that the new driveshaft is faulty and have ordered another.
Either the current one will go back as faulty, or I’ll sell it cheap as a ‘new’ on flea bay.

Will update from there.
 
Do you still have the old drive shaft?

When you get the one in question off, and the new one - compare to the old one.

It appears there are some being distributed that are not the exact same dimensions - they are a few mm difference in some aspect.

Forget the exact difference but there was a guy in America/Canada who had all sorts of problems getting the correct shaft - although I presume that was a I6 being over there. But there was also the same issue came up elsewhere, possibly UK.
 
Good memory GG. Who needs a search engine.!!

I remember it now that you have told us, which is how I remember most things 😀
 
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