Search results

Drill a small hole in the end of both bolts, then fit an r clip to stop the bolts being removed with the bonnet closed.

The plate between the two gaskets does not look as rusty as the reat of it, so I would say you are correct and it is already blanked. Iirc on mine I removed the egr valve, fitted a blank plate to the exhaust manifold, and fitted a non egr top intercooler hose to get rid of the whole system.

Shorten them by an inch or so, that way you get to bolt them through fresh rubber.

My 200 also does that, though I find 70 hard bloody work in it, 60 ish is much easier.

Once the stat opens they will self bleed, but you do get a massive spike in coolant temperature until the stat does eventually open. Is the coolant system pressurising? If you try a search on here there have been at least two and possibly three recent threads of tdi (300 mainly) overheating...

Looks like ooolant temp sensor. Google ERR2081A.

Collapsed rubber hose on suction side, looks fine but internal limer has delaminated causing oil starvation at the pump.

I have had new stats faulty from the packet, last one was a 200 one.

I think the gearbox is the same regardless if the engine is EDC or not.

Transfer case has much bigger bearings than the ptos. On the LR series ptos they say max amount of power drawn is 20/25bhp depending on rpms, they also mention if exceeding certain rpms/loads for over 30 minutes an engine oil cooler must be fitted. I cannot see the defender ptos being much...

Welcome to LZ. How much power will the genny draw in bhp terms? then you will need to find out what the pto can handle.

I have done a full size truck clutth in 1.5 hrs, and they are way way easier than a defender. I would bet there is a quick way of doing them at the lr specialists.

I can see a few things going wrong and there goes your hours. Old car mix match engine/gearbox, couple of seized bolts especially floor plate bolts/screws, rounded off prop bolts. With the 77 box the engine might swing forward enough to get the clutch in without rmeoving box or engine. Or it...

200 and early 300 autos were not edc, edc came out on the (I think) 95 N reg models, when bhp went from 111 to 121. Even the edc models still had a kickdown cable, they had a throttle cable from throttle pedal to a throttle potentiometer under the bonnet, then kickdown cable from potentiometer...

You need new glasses, fail to crank, not crank fail.

Not done it, but do keep us updated as it is somehting I would like to do to mine in the future. You can get cv props rather than uj props, and I believe the cv style can operate at greater angles with no vibe issues.

I found the old pig tail glow plugs to be better for starting than the newer ones.

Easier to post to a hosting site like youtube etc, then post a link on here.

I would say main bearing cap bolts. Quick search on google should find an answer.

Tbh most 300 owners do not have a clue about anything, otherwise why woud they have bought a 300!