What did you do with your Range Rover today

The motors are hard to find. For the pots, I used these from eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172890189265

Mostly it's dry solder joints on the PCB, or aging of the connector contacts that plugs into the HEVAC. I had to replace many of the contacts in one of mine which had lost the ability to grip the pins properly & therefore intermittent.

16-way 040 Multilock

Flossie said:

Twas just a quick glance though. 5 wires it is thanks.
His were lovely and quiet when testing them all post repair, we didn't know if his pot was OK but it was on the nano so just a dead motor. Mine make quite nasty crunchy noises when testing with the nano which I need to investigate further as I can't remember if it was 2 or 3 of them making a noise.
Having never messed about with the motors until yesterday it looks easy enough , if the gears are OK, to fit new pots and new motors to my existing 3 and save some cash.
I'm sure I read that motors are available but can't find the info now but I havnt tried that hard tbf, been busy lately.

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Yes 5 wires

Reminder to anyone with dodgy central locking. Don't park so close to something that you can't open the passenger door to get in

kermit_rr said:

Reminder to anyone with dodgy central locking. Don't park so close to something that you can't open the passenger door to get in

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Now see if you had got a LHD the key would have been in the drivers door, so you would have been ok

Playing up again is it?

J

marjon said:

Now see if you had got a LHD the key would have been in the drivers door, so you would have been ok

Playing up again is it?

J

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I don't want to be guilty of using the parts cannon.. well.. I'm happy to replace broken bits.. but i don't know how to tell what's cause and what's symptom not even the smoking gun of corrosion anywhere and everything is a marathon to reach

marjon said:

Now see if you had got a LHD the key would have been in the drivers door, so you would have been ok

Playing up again is it?

J

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Anyways, why isn't the emergency key barrel in the driver's door!?

kermit_rr said:

Reminder to anyone with dodgy central locking. Don't park so close to something that you can't open the passenger door to get in

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Like this

kermit_rr said:

genius.. though dont have any that big.. is a loose shield a MOT issue? maybe i can squeeze it tight with pliers

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Join 2 clips together end to end to make a bigger one. Done that loads of times.

kermit_rr said:

I don't want to be guilty of using the parts cannon.. well.. I'm happy to replace broken bits.. but i don't know how to tell what's cause and what's symptom not even the smoking gun of corrosion anywhere and everything is a marathon to reach

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Maybe I'm naive but i don't see how it can be component or connector failure.. every single time without fail, it resumed normal operation after being left 10 hours overnight. This can't be coincidence?
If the module was broken then it would stay broke? Not work for weeks at a time without issues? Same goes for a wire/connector?

It's got to be a software issue?

So how does software 'fix' itself overnight? It's more likely to be hardware purely due to what happens overnight - i.e. temperature drops. Bear in mind that the electrical components for the systems affected are connected & 'in use' 24 hours a day, they don't ever have 'off time' so the capacitors in particular will be ageing more than other electrical / electronic components. Temperature variations have a big effect upon electrical & electronic components. IMO you need to stop prevaricating and get the headlining down - maybe get another receiver first so you only have to do it once. At the moment all that's happening is guesses, with an ongoing concern like yours, it won't get any better unless you do something about it.

As above, it's not going to be software, semiconductors and electrolytics are affected by temperature changes. Fractured solder joints are affected by temperature and vibration.

The suspension fault I was chasing for 18 months was from a bodge by a previous owner where they had just twisted the wires together. The more green the connection became the more often it happened. Once I found and soldered it it's been fine.

i was thinking about some module going to sleep after some x amount of time and allowing some other system to reboot.. at least that was my thought process

whats the proper name for the fr receiver and assume i need to steer away from second hand ones?

I think its on the right hand side of the roof to the rear of the sunroof? Can I remove the central light cluster to at least see it or does the liner need to drop before you can remove the light cluster?

Mark Piercy said:

The little cursor arrow on the bottom of the screen can be pressed to reveal more info on the code if present

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Had a play with the nano again.
Guess that's the pot knacked?

Oops, forgot the last one
..

Flossie said:

Oops, forgot the last one
..
View attachment 315985

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If you try to operate the blend motor with Nanocom, can you hear the motor operate?

Could be open circuit on the PCB, connector problem, or a bad pot.

Datatek said:

If you try to operate the blend motor with Nanocom, can you hear the motor operate?

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Yes, a lot noiser than my friends motors that we replaced last Saturday and ran via nanocom though.

pwood999 said:

Could be open circuit on the PCB, connector problem, or a bad pot.

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Pcb? The little board inside the motor housing that the motor and pot are soldered to?

Flossie said:

Yes, a lot noiser than my friends motors that we replaced last Saturday and ran via nanocom though.

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Ok if the motor operates, then the fault reported is correct. I have found that if the motor does not operate, that can also be reported as a feedback failure as the potentiometer output does not change.