Starter Clicks

Ithought that since I searched for answers to a problem with starter clicking and found my own answer to the problem I would post to help someone else .
This is the second time I have had this, the small 12v feed to the solenoid has been the culprit once last winter and now again this one .
I pulled the terminal off and squeezed the clip slightly to give a better more secure fit and in so doing happened to put it on (as its awkward in position), slightly squint and of course thinking I had not cured the bad connection. So checked everything else and resolved to remove the starter , this is when I found that the small wire to the starter was not on correctly, I then reconnected and tried the starter again .............Bingo starts fine and no hesitation in the past 24hrs.So please check that lead out first because it may pass 12v but if its not a tight fit it will carry the Amps.

This sort of thing is why I keep a simple test light in the car. It would have shown 12V getting to the unplugged female terminal, but more importantly would have shown 12V NOT getting to the starter spade when plugged in and in crank position.

Similarly, they are invaluable for checking high resistance corroded connections - only a loaded circuit test will pick this up and a test light is much quicker and easier than a multimeter.

In general, if you find 12V not getting to where it should, walk the test light back along the circuit (under load) until it lights - you have just crossed over the bad connection.

If your FL also as a mileage of 65.000 or more I would be changing the contacts and plunger as here below.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-2-0-CDT-CDTi-STARTER-SOLENOID-REPAIR-KIT-228000-7801-or-NAD101500/252158920680?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

guineafowl21 said:

This sort of thing is why I keep a simple test light in the car. It would have shown 12V getting to the unplugged female terminal, but more importantly would have shown 12V NOT getting to the starter spade when plugged in and in crank position.

Similarly, they are invaluable for checking high resistance corroded connections - only a loaded circuit test will pick this up and a test light is much quicker and easier than a multimeter.

In general, if you find 12V not getting to where it should, walk the test light back along the circuit (under load) until it lights - you have just crossed over the bad connection.

Click to expand...

Yes I forgot to use this , I have one myself , but in my head I guessed this was happening , except for the fact I went straight to the previous fault I had 9 mths ago and when I reset the wire I didn't connect it properly and so thought I had a new fault , if you see what I mean. I found out my fault then !
Thanks for replying.