Your spring doesn't look to be the worst. I'd second the idea of properly lubricating the pedal pivots. Your valence panel is off a 2A. I've removed mine, as it let's me stand between the bumper and grille when spannering.

The L represents the best and most efficient angle to open your wallet whilst removing your bank card to pay for yet another repair bill.

Hi All, I'm assisting work on the restoration of a Series 2A, fitted with a later 5mb Series 3 petrol engine. In an effort for better reliability I want to fit a more modern geared pre engaged starter motor. Can anyone confirm I can fit a starter off a 2.5 90, or indeed suggest a better...

I would highly recommend that you buy a can of electrical switch cleaner like Super Servisol, and give every connection a squirt before reassembly. It will remove corrosion and also assist disassembly in the future.

Check the plug gaps. If they're too big it can erode the distributor cap pins.

Also, examine the small earthing wire from your baseplate to the distributor body for tight connections and general condition. They don't last forever.

I also don't have much faith in the modern components as the quality is not what it was back in the good old days. Luckily I still have a few OE condensers from a friend whose father ran a motor factors a long time ago. Firstly I would dump the resistor. That tech was ok back in the days of old...

Agreed. Costs for bringing in parts from UK to Ireland has increased since Brexit. I'm not sure if the lock I showed is the correct one but its a start, pardon the pun....

https://strykerlandrovers.com/product/steering-column-lock-3-door-barrels-keys/

Have a look at strykerlandrovers website. They list the locks, and are based in Limerick.

Count the teeth on the old belt and compare to the new one. Also compare the idler/pullies. You might have been supplied with a wrong part.

I'd advise checking the function of the lift pump. Pull off the outlet pipe and crank it for a few seconds, as opposed to tickling the priming lever. The lift pumps can be fussy with the gasket /spacer thickness to the block. If the clearance is not correct the pump can either not prime...

Are you getting any white smoke from the exhaust while cranking? No smoke means no fuel being injected.

Better and safer to have a reserve in the tank when gauge is showing empty....

Make sure the pivot mechanism at the bottom of each shoe is moving freely. The often get overlooked.

Fair enough. I'll bow to the experts..

You can't run a rear diff in the front. The crown wheel and pinion will be running on the backs of their teeth.

Make sure your pedal is at the correct height off the floor. I can't remember the correct measurement but I'm sure someone here will assist with that. Also make sure your master cylinder has some pushrod free play.

Is the clutch pedal travelling to the floor, or are you met with a firm stop before the pedal goes all the way down? The piston in the slave might be hitting the circlip at the end of the bore, thus limiting the amount of push onto the clutch pressure plate. It's easy to end up with an incorrect...

I was fortunate that my bellhousing already had a hole in it (for an unknown reason), where I could undo the pressure plate bolts. Hopefully you can squeeze a spanner through the gap that you have.