Oops! sorry the bolts were listed in the manual it was the screws that were the extras. Should be three bolts there I think…will check. Have you got a copy of the manual? I am sure I have seen it posted somewhere, I can photograph the relevant pages if you cannot find the .pdf… Alan

Here is mine. I replaced a strip of the floor and both mudguards at either end of the cill. I used 80x80mm box section for the body mount brackets and tried to butt weld everything rather than build in more rust trap lap joints, took ages...

I have found that re-bonding "feature" has been really useful the last few days. The Discovery is outside at the moment so I can just offer the panel back at close of play and it sticks itself back on and keeps the rain out. Saves sheeting it with a tarpaulin and so does not look so...

Yes rivets, drilling the heads off will be less likely to damage than a chisel. I have posted some photos on the rear quarter sealant thread which may help. I still ended up twisting the hose clamps off to remove them even after wire brushing and soaking with penetrating oil for a couple of...

Given up! Every time I tried to add the second image it deleted the first. Herewith the other image...

@ MGBGTV8. The wire cable saw sounds good, but Billy-no-mates here does not have long enough arms to do both sides at the same time, and wanted to find a way to do it by myself without removing the window glass. The photo shows the bit of sheet and the hammer, I just held on to the pointy bit...

Wheel bearings tend to produce a growly rumbling sound rather than a "metalicy" one. If you are having/feeling sharp knocks that could be steering track rod end or all sorts. The tests mentioned above will help identify. Wheel nuts are all tight? Oil leak may or may not be associated with the...

I have taken off the panel now and there appears to be three different sealants. A still very wet and sticky one around the frame which I will replace with non setting Butyl rubber gutter seal stuff. The bead under the roof gutter and down below the passenger door catch seem to be a much...

Have you sorted this now? If not the symptoms appear to be similar to the fob button remaining pushed…either the button cover itself sticking or the switch inside losing its spring return. Does it do it with both of your fobs or even when key operated? Alan

I have spent a happy day searching through the forum but cannot find information I am looking for. Plenty of "how to remove" the rear quarter panel, which I have from the manual as well, but nothing specific with regard to reaffixing. The Discovery 1 manual refers to four different 3M...

Thank you for that. I have the roof lining and most of the trim out at the moment and the only place that seems to be letting any water in is from behind the door trim panel on the drivers door , so I guess the plastic sheet is damaged. I will have another look on the inside by the gutter when...

Before I thought of the glue I was wondering about rivnuts, the sealed ones rather than the open ones, and bolts. The spacer sounds a great idea, I have a box of nylon washers somewhere, so if my glue does not stand up to it I will remember that. Have you had any problems with people treading...

Lucky then! I guess the lack of sunroofs is the key. When I lifted mine out the flange to roof seals were no longer attached to the roof, which was due to age I suppose, but there was a joint inside which the guy had missed with the sealant by 10mm so it hadn't been sealed from day one...

Ah that's good to hear and a good point, I took off the step because the tube frame was rotten so am likely to get the same clodhopper problem. Maybe I will undo some of my lovely new metallic paint work and weld on a steel step/slider. I too have only done the one side so far, well back to...

No not a hardcore off roader. Apart from the aesthetics what about the practicalities of leaving them off? Sounds a familiar tale when I lifted the carpets I found less and less! My sorry tale in pictures! Disco 1 Yet another Discovery 1 welding saga - Land Rover Zone Had your...

I have replaced the sills with box section on my TDi300 and was wondering whether to put the sill finishers back on. I was not going to use the plastic rivets but glue them on with PU so that I did not have any holes into the sill. Most of the corrosion behind them is because of the plastic...

It all depends, and it has gone round and round in my mind too! It looks like someone has had a go at yours in the past. The red oxide primer on the boot floor and the stonechip on the door frame arch. Mine was/is in much the same (lack of) condition and I am about a third of the way through...

I must have done something wrong in that case! I have just sealed my (two) sunroofs and done the vertical seam at the back and the plastic arch trim to inner wing of the offside front wing and I used most of one tube....the sunroofs were out and all the old sealer removed and a 8mm bead put all...

Yes I did look at the specification sheets that I could find, but could not find a clear difference between them, they all appeared to do the same job, hence my post. Toolstation just came up with the best price when I followed somebody's recommendation for PU40. I did look at the links...

Apart from the difference in price are all the polyurethane sealers similar in use / quality / longevity? Can anybody point towards any comparison/test sites? I have seen various unsubstantiated claims that Sikaflex is much better than Tiger Seal, and equally that Tiger Seal is way better than...