Or at least have a good laugh :D

You don't need an earth strap that long. Shorter is better as a longer cable means more resistance and a bigger voltage and current drop. Just use the shortest one that will work.

I have just checked and amazingly my 2002 TD4 is showing as ULEZ compliant.

You can visit https://www.landrover.co.uk/ownership/software-update/index.html to see if yours can be updated.

Can you do a firmware update on your unit?

Have you got that message on cut and paste by any chance Hippo? :p:D

This is the tratter section, you can't be using long words like that on here.:p

Those cables don't look great. It is important that your wiring is in as good condition as possible. Corroded and poorly connected wiring is one of the most common causes of electrical problems. This may be the ideal time to renew some of your ignition wiring, particularly as this is the wiring...

If you do try starting it with the handle, be careful. I had to do it several times with my series III, if you get it wrong it hurts. Make sure your ignition timing is correct, if it is too far advanced, you will get kickback. When holding the handle, do not wrap your thumb around the handle...

I had a similar issue in my Freelander. I eventually found that it was caused by interference from my phone and charger. I have to keep the phone at least a meter away from the aerial and make sure that Bluetooth is off.

134000, with all the stamps in the service book.

5600 miles? That is not a lot of money for a nearly new vehicle.

I'd have thought that after 3 weeks a competent garage would have at least some idea of whats wrong. After changing the camshaft sensor have they done further diagnostics? What do they say?

I would take it to a different garage, those muppets don't seem to have much of a clue about what they are doing.

My guess is that your battery is shagged.

Sounds like a wheel bearing. IIRC the wheel bearing contains the magnets for the HDC/TCS sensors. If this fails you will get HDC and TC probs.

I believe the M/S is manual selection. Push the gear lever left when in D and you can change gear manually by pushing the lever forwards to change up and backwards to change down.

Rather than doing harm, regularly starting and running an engine is good for it and driving it, even a relatively short distance, is also better than leaving it standing. If possible, allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature before switching it off.

Have you considered a D3? £4000 will get you an early one of those fairly decent condition and it will be be better than most D2's out there.

When I had my old 110 I replaced all the rotten one-piece, push-button doors with two-piece SIII ones. Not only were they cheaper but also less likely to rot from the inside and they were quite a bit slimmer so I had more elbow room while driving.