It will bleed - but as soon as pressure is needed to push the clutch fork the fluid takes the path of easiest resistance and in my case that is back into the reservoir

mine did the same for many years till it wore out while doing 60 on the road you just need to switch off while still driving and then on again a second later and it clears till the next time no need to even take it out of gear

this is for a discovery 1 300 tdi 97 model so a square reservoir if someone has a master handy and can tell what it looks like in the bottom of the reservoir it would be much appreciated i have a hole going straight through into the cylinder which would explain why I can't get pressure

i r going to get to the bottom of this no matter the consequences master cylinder so past logic doesn't count for reference the front is where the pipe attaches to feed fluid to the slave there has to be a one way valve between the reservoir and the body of the cylinder otherwise the fluid...

So turns out the seal closest to the clutch pedal was on the wrong way round Corrected that this morning and master is now in the freezer till tomorrow when I will fit and test The stain was on the engine bay side of the firewall - and ran down till directly over the chassis rail and onto the...

So thought i would make friends with the Landy after eating a vegan meal - 2 hours Clutch reservoir empty Long stain down the bulkhead pig puddle under the chassis rail far from the slave Eish

So done both master and slave seals The old slave seal looked and felt a bit worn and there was some fluid in the dust cap The pin connecting to the clutch fork feels solid and remains connected to the fork after taking out the slave my haynes manual says my slave should have a circlip - well...

When i push the clutch in the slave isnt leaking any,more hence my master theory hope i am correct

Right From this post "Got the pin in,Easy peasy,took off clutch master cylender,pushed pedel down to floor,super glued the pin head to an 8 inch long piece of metal coat hanger,plenty room to put the master cylender in place,and manipulate the pin so it pushes back throu the pedal,same with...

i replaced the slave about 8 years ago and it has been dripping for about a year or so i suspect the master purely because the clutch bite point has been getting lower over time slave is least easier to get to have had the clutch fork mod done am anxious as I need to buy food

Right so asked and answered A paper clip through one hole and a bit of luck in getting it out The old seals looked perfectly fine but the new ones argued a lot more to put on than the old ones did to take off Will begin my fight with the pin and circlip on the clutch pedal tomorrow hope it...

As per heading I need to fit new seal's to my clutch master cylinder - R380 box After getting it out of the vehicle the cir-clip holes are so small that I dought a cir-clip removal pliers actually exists for that size The circlip itself moves around in its groove easily Any other tips from...

Is that an intake or exhaust port ?

And a hearty welcome from a fellow southern hemisphere - good old RSA - I have 2 things you may be envious of a Discovery 1 and a Webb Ellis Cup

on my D1 the ABS light eventually died after being on for many many years - so maybe the globe hasn't been removed

on my D1 that cover plate is the slide used for the aircon belt tensioner and I have removed that on occasion to access the 3 bolts holding the timing belt pulley to advance or retard the injector pump timing while experimenting

To be more specific it's a left hand drive 300 tdi I haven't seen one with the cylinder head temp gauge on top like that before

While egt's are a very important measure - it's not the only one I can get 650 while doing 2000 rpm in thick sand very quickly - but if i am doing 120 kph I don't want to see over 550 on even the steepest hill 4 th gear and 3000 rpm will get you to 700 very quickly without the right foot...

I am sure that that green box has nothing to do with the indicators.. I had mine stop working many many moons ago- also no hazards like yours my failing memory tells me it was just a relay that needed replacement the grey matter doesn't extend to which relay but the drivers side rings a bell

Are the mechanism's of the fan serviceable at all ?