@Hector the Bad don't concern yourself with @gold rover She has half the forum on ignore The other half has her on ignore :D A post has been deleted for swearing outside of Anything Goes Welcome to LooneyZone

It may be the same problem but it is a very specific question that may apply to a range of problems/members imo so I'll let the thread stand

Done

Sorry can't help, I've never even worked out how to plug my Series in

I'm only ever on my phone, maybe use an ad blocker if they're too bad or pay a small sub to become a full member, I can't remember the last time I saw an ad here. Have you checked your flexis for ballooning?

Whereas actual moderators wish people would make an effort to post in something approximating a relevant section...they're more likely to get the help they need anorl.

Hub down and spacers on the bolts

Normally near side chassis rail to a bell housing bolt at about 7 o clock but doesn't matter where

Normal setup is battery -ve to chassis and chassis to bell housing

Have you checked you have a high amp earth from chassis to engine block (usually bell housing)?

I'm happy to be over-ruled

I can't see a problem if they're being offered free. Hopefully they'll go to someone that needs them

@Mery use "upload a file" in the reply box to post pictures

I think you misunderstand what the chalk test is

Not strictly LR but may be relevant, haven't watched it all because I can't be bothered to watch some bloke take forever to explain he's filling up some jam jars with petrol :rolleyes:

There will be if you swing with big hammer enough times

Or possibly poor earth, enough juice to kick the solenoid but not subsequently turn it over. Easily checked on older engines with a jump lead from starter body to battery -ve but I don't know if that'll mess with other td5 electwizzardry. Someone will know

Already done

They do if they've had theirs nicked :confused: The same happened with D2 headlights. People had theirs popped out and then bought replacements off fleabay with broken clips ffs!