Doubt it was an option as it means rerouting a brake line and possibly an airline.

1997 is when they went dual tail pipe.

Very rare to need topping up. Follow the rear brake lines down, especially where they cross over the rear axle. Check for any dampness. If you have stainless steel braided flexis then check the ends for weeping.

Have to admit I cleaned out the rust and then whacked on a load of grease to try and protect it the last time I did mine. Didn't have any stonechip paint left!

Not had a Double-decker in years. Or a Curly-wurly. You're definitely heading in the right direction.

I'd be willing to let mine go for 24000€ if that helps you?

Never had any issues from my o-rings but my matrix did start leaking!

Straight connectors: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365429122966 Barbed fitting for hose: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276692477288

Cut my oil pipes and replaced with compression fittings and new rubber pipe. All seems good. Swapped out the oil and filter. The price of oil at the usual suspects was silly money so 20 litres of Smith & Allan fully synthetic heavy duty truck oil put in. Sounds very smooth.

Finished. Seems to be holding OK. Took it for a test-drive and drove it like I stole it on the way back. No sign of any weeps. The turbo-wheezle has 5/8" outer diameter oil pipes. An adjustable pipe cutter does a lovely job if you undo the pipe clamp on the vertical support for the intake...

Seem to be OK. Damn tight on tolerance. Fitted but just as I was reassembling the bloody rain started. ****ing it down. Back soaked through so gave up and came in. Currently looking out the window and hoping it will stop soon. Needs to handle 4 bar of pressure on the turbo-weasel.

In a similar vein, these 5/8" compression fittings have finally arived from China.

Did you remember to push down on the front bumper before trying to pull it forward? And undo the clips either side that try to rust into a single lump?

If it isn't that bad then 1 until 3 becomes the way forward.

JFC. Might be worth a post on LZ courier service. If someone like @Mark Piercy was heading over the Channel he might get away with saying it is his spare in the boot if anyone asks.

+1. It needs the Timken bearing which costs quite a lot. There was a replacement parts place in Birmingham that did an aftermarket hub with the Timken bearing but they're gone / been bought out.

I looked at this some years ago but by the time I added the cost of all the parts up it was about £100 shy of what Ashcrofts were charging for a fully refurbed transfer box with all the parts done. So I dug out the £650 and paid it. The only issue was they hadn't polished the flange where the...

I lock mine in standard. Just let it settle at standard height and then press the inhibit switch next to the height switch and it will stay there. Data leaves his at motorway height but I am on Arnott 3 springs.

You shouldn't have more than 100 bit count difference across an axle. Sounds like bent arm. Personally I use calibration blocks and average the value across each axle. They have to be within the expected target range as well or it'll think it is adjusting between heights

I think you can ignore that. The engine isn't running at those revs. That's a measurement taken on switching off or more likely starting and the volts have dropped low causing it to log a fault for some reason. I'd just ignore it. I cannot remember the value at which it accepts the engine is...