For future reference, at least on a GEMS, 14mm socket on the nut, a pin spanner or something would be best to stop the clutch plate rotating whilst you loosen the nut, but I managed to just hold it with my hand. Remove clutch, there is enough room to get it out in front of the power steering resevoir, remove washer/shim behind the clutch. Reassembly reverse of removal. There is a missing tooth so it will only go back on the splines one way.

I applied 12v to the clutch wires to check it clicks in and out nicely and it does. Doing this also helped with tightning the 14mm nut back up.

The shim on mine is (or was) 0.5mm thick.
 
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Can anyone remember how to get the compressor clutch off? I've had to replace mine with a used one because my clutch bearing was very noisy and rough as a bears arse. I've replaced the compressor, and whilst it was apart I renewed some O rings and the expansion valve. Also bought a new receiver/drier, but I can't get my front bumper off so that'll have to wait....

Anyway, I had to remove the washer behind the clutch on my old compressor, so I thought I'd do the same to this one... but I can't remember how. Do I just remove the nut on the front and pull it off? I'm not going to have springs and stuff fly into my eyes am I?

I've got it booked in for an evac and test and regas Wednesday, and I want it to have the best chance of working when they do it!

Did you remember to push down on the front bumper before trying to pull it forward? And undo the clips either side that try to rust into a single lump?
 
Did you remember to push down on the front bumper before trying to pull it forward? And undo the clips either side that try to rust into a single lump?
Teach your grandmother. It's actually the connections to the drier that are siezed. They haven't moved since 1997, and are an aluminium/steel combo. I think I'll destroy the pipes trying to move them, and replacements are either VERY expensive, or no longer available.
 
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