Yes Nanocom can save the height values. There's several threads on this forum showing how to calibrate the heights. There's also a few YouTube videos as well.
I tried looking for them but couldn't find any specific thread on this forum with instructions on how to calibrate? I saw the YT videos with the block method, I'm wondering how does the measuring stick method work?
 
With Nanocom, you can send the suspension to any height. You will need the engine running when you do the calibration. For the measuring stick a I use a piece of alloy but wood will do, stand the stick on the ground, (must be level ground, put a mark at the wheel center, from that mark measure and mark the 4 heights that have to be calibrated. The measurements have been posted many times, if you cannot find them I will post them again this evening when I'm in the office.
Oh, gotcha, thanks! So I start by putting the suspension as high as it goes with the Nanocom, right? Without the blocks, if I deflate the airbags, it won't rest on the blocks to get to the correct height, is it going to drop down to access level, or how does it work exactly?
 
I tried looking for them but couldn't find any specific thread on this forum with instructions on how to calibrate? I saw the YT videos with the block method, I'm wondering how does the measuring stick method work?
You adjust each corner to the mark on the measuring stick so it aligns with the edge of the wheel arch starting at wade height and working down to each of the other 3 levels. With blocks, you have to crawl under the car which IMO could be dangerous if you do not know what you are doing.
 
Thanks for the info! I see in the videos they're using some kind of a computer program. I have a Nanocom, will I be able to program the new heights with it, without a computer?

You can do almost anything with a Nanocom, so yes.
 
Found the trail of the front left RH sensor cables.
If its not the sensor is it likely to be these external wires?
 

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Coming back to revive this thread. @UnitLandy did you ever fix your LF height sensor issue?

I ended up having to rebuild my compressor as it gave up and wouldn't lift from access mode. I also calibrated it with the stick method as best as I could last summer, but it did not fix the height sensor issue. We did solder half of the white connectors IIRC, but I guess we have to go back to solder the rest as well. Because it's giving wild readings with Nanocom, with the target heights as I set them within range of each other and live heights between the LF and RF sensor have a 100 bit count difference, with the RF being at 120 and LF at 20...

The main symptom is EAS fault in dash, especially when idling for longer than a minute, but lately also when driving on a flat road. Have to find the soldering iron again and take a look at any potential EAS ECU corrosion as well.
 
Yes, I did solder a new connector to the FL sensor & put the old sensor back on as the cheap chinese ones were rubbish. Mines sort of behaving itself atm although it sits crooked on the left side. It used to extend to the max height on flat roads doing 30, however, it doesn't do this as often now. It doesn't do the EAS fault as much either (although it does now and again) but getting the car to lower to its loading height is non-existent. It just won't lower after 10 minutes or an EAS fault will appear. I hope fixing the rear sensor will fix the whole problem...

That stick calibration is a great idea. I'll do that myself at some point. I also need to solder the new RL clip on too & replace that sensor.

In short, soldering the new connections on has helped slightly but its not completely fixed yet. So I think it might have some effect in terms of fixing the problem.

Where did you find the corrosion on yours?
 
Yes, I did solder a new connector to the FL sensor & put the old sensor back on as the cheap chinese ones were rubbish. Mines sort of behaving itself atm although it sits crooked on the left side. It used to extend to the max height on flat roads doing 30, however, it doesn't do this as often now. It doesn't do the EAS fault as much either (although it does now and again) but getting the car to lower to its loading height is non-existent. It just won't lower after 10 minutes or an EAS fault will appear. I hope fixing the rear sensor will fix the whole problem...

That stick calibration is a great idea. I'll do that myself at some point. I also need to solder the new RL clip on too & replace that sensor.

In short, soldering the new connections on has helped slightly but its not completely fixed yet. So I think it might have some effect in terms of fixing the problem.

Where did you find the corrosion on yours?
If it's slow to drop, check the EAS exhaust silencer towards the rear of the valve block is not clogged with white powder.
 
Coil springs and dampers get rid of all those space-hopper problems. Classic Ferraris (and my P38) have them, so can’t be all bad. Or let the nightmare roll on. Your call.
 
Yes, I did solder a new connector to the FL sensor & put the old sensor back on as the cheap chinese ones were rubbish. Mines sort of behaving itself atm although it sits crooked on the left side. It used to extend to the max height on flat roads doing 30, however, it doesn't do this as often now. It doesn't do the EAS fault as much either (although it does now and again) but getting the car to lower to its loading height is non-existent. It just won't lower after 10 minutes or an EAS fault will appear. I hope fixing the rear sensor will fix the whole problem...

That stick calibration is a great idea. I'll do that myself at some point. I also need to solder the new RL clip on too & replace that sensor.

In short, soldering the new connections on has helped slightly but its not completely fixed yet. So I think it might have some effect in terms of fixing the problem.

Where did you find the corrosion on yours?
What connector did you solder to the FL sensor exactly? Are you talking about a wire or some specific connector?

We stopped using the EAS height adjustment altogether, tried to lock it in standard height through Nanocom as Datatek suggested before but it didn't work? It would still adjust itself as it wanted, if the auto-adjust button was pressed. In my experience it's best to avoid the access height as my Rangy sometimes gets stuck there as it randomly deflates, I'll be driving and wondering why is the road so bumpy. I should probably fix this issue soon as I believe air suspension can work just as well as springs when maintained. A right front airbag actually blew some months ago, had to replace it but it was a very quick and easy (not cheap though) replacement.

Mine loves to extend to max height on flat roads, just as yours! It has been misbehaving a lot lately. The corrosion we found was on the white connectors in the drivers (LHD) footwell, this is what mine looked like before soldering some of them last summer.
IMG_3920.jpeg
 
Coil springs and dampers get rid of all those space-hopper problems. Classic Ferraris (and my P38) have them, so can’t be all bad. Or let the nightmare roll on. Your call.
A mechanic offered me to switch my EAS to coils for a decent price. Honestly I didn't even consider his offer because yes, while the EAS has more systems to take care of than springs and it can cause all sorts of problems and even leave you stranded, I believe these cars take effort and care to maintain in their original shape. While I may not always have the biggest budget for fixing my car, I want to take care of it and preserve it for the future generations and not let rot away and taken apart for parts after being wh*red in the forest offroad... These are classic cars after all and admittedly I've come to realize not everybody can afford them, old luxury cars as they are. I got mine without any mods, imported from France and undriven for the past 15 years. I try my best and I believe there's more value and originality to them if you preserve and maintain their air suspension, even if it takes a bit more effort than having coils.
 
A mechanic offered me to switch my EAS to coils for a decent price. Honestly I didn't even consider his offer because yes, while the EAS has more systems to take care of than springs and it can cause all sorts of problems and even leave you stranded, I believe these cars take effort and care to maintain in their original shape. While I may not always have the biggest budget for fixing my car, I want to take care of it and preserve it for the future generations and not let rot away and taken apart for parts after being wh*red in the forest offroad... These are classic cars after all and admittedly I've come to realize not everybody can afford them, old luxury cars as they are. I got mine without any mods, imported from France and undriven for the past 15 years. I try my best and I believe there's more value and originality to them if you preserve and maintain their air suspension, even if it takes a bit more effort than having coils.
Here Here 👍 👍
 
Coming back to revive this thread. @UnitLandy did you ever fix your LF height sensor issue?

I ended up having to rebuild my compressor as it gave up and wouldn't lift from access mode. I also calibrated it with the stick method as best as I could last summer, but it did not fix the height sensor issue. We did solder half of the white connectors IIRC, but I guess we have to go back to solder the rest as well. Because it's giving wild readings with Nanocom, with the target heights as I set them within range of each other and live heights between the LF and RF sensor have a 100 bit count difference, with the RF being at 120 and LF at 20...

The main symptom is EAS fault in dash, especially when idling for longer than a minute, but lately also when driving on a flat road. Have to find the soldering iron again and take a look at any potential EAS ECU corrosion as well.

You shouldn't have more than 100 bit count difference across an axle. Sounds like bent arm. Personally I use calibration blocks and average the value across each axle. They have to be within the expected target range as well or it'll think it is adjusting between heights
 
What connector did you solder to the FL sensor exactly? Are you talking about a wire or some specific connector?

We stopped using the EAS height adjustment altogether, tried to lock it in standard height through Nanocom as Datatek suggested before but it didn't work? It would still adjust itself as it wanted, if the auto-adjust button was pressed. In my experience it's best to avoid the access height as my Rangy sometimes gets stuck there as it randomly deflates, I'll be driving and wondering why is the road so bumpy. I should probably fix this issue soon as I believe air suspension can work just as well as springs when maintained. A right front airbag actually blew some months ago, had to replace it but it was a very quick and easy (not cheap though) replacement.

Mine loves to extend to max height on flat roads, just as yours! It has been misbehaving a lot lately. The corrosion we found was on the white connectors in the drivers (LHD) footwell, this is what mine looked like before soldering some of them last summer.
View attachment 337476

I lock mine in standard. Just let it settle at standard height and then press the inhibit switch next to the height switch and it will stay there. Data leaves his at motorway height but I am on Arnott 3 springs.
 
I lock mine in standard. Just let it settle at standard height and then press the inhibit switch next to the height switch and it will stay there. Data leaves his at motorway height but I am on Arnott 3 springs.
One on Arnott Gen 2 and one on Dunlops, both locked at motorway height on the dash button.
 
The dash button does keep the car from switching the EAS height while switching driving short/long distance but when it gets an error it makes itself lift to wade height or in some scenarios has even dropped to bump stops for some reason.
 
The dash button does keep the car from switching the EAS height while switching driving short/long distance but when it gets an error it makes itself lift to wade height or in some scenarios has even dropped to bump stops for some reason.
That is normal with a fault.
 
Yep, you just keep on repairing and suffering a poor design, badly assembled from shoddy components. I’ll go for the evolutionary improvement approach. My simplified P38 runs superbly with its top-hat engine, coil springs, and needs minimal attention. And no soggy carpets or warning messages. It looks right, sounds right and goes right. It’s everything a P38 should be…
 
Yep, you just keep on repairing and suffering a poor design, badly assembled from shoddy components. I’ll go for the evolutionary improvement approach. My simplified P38 runs superbly with its top-hat engine, coil springs, and needs minimal attention. And no soggy carpets or warning messages. It looks right, sounds right and goes right. It’s everything a P38 should be…
Should have been from the start🤷
 

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