Yes, that looks terminal. I don't think it helps the way the chassis is constructed in what looks like layers.

How bad is the corrosion? I took the tank and stuff out of the way and got a mobile auto-welder to fix mine. He charged £60 and did a great job. A lot of the two hours was hammering and preparation. Even if the rear chassis needs replacing it might be worth getting a professional auto...

I have ordered a crack detection kit to check the injector pocket in the head. If I see a crack then I will assume the injector is ok. If I don't see one then I will get another injector.

I spoke to Doctor Diesel and he says that specialist testing gear is needed because the injectors are cam driven. The few places that have the gear will charge a lot. At least I know now that the cheap testing services on ebay won't be of use. Nothing is that simple with Land Rovers.

Especially if it has an empty barn.

There is a videoon you tube where he does it using axle stands.

Can you remember roughly how much he charged?

Piston one went in the engine but there was diesel getting into the sump at the time after changing seals and washers. The valves were black in that cylinder and I think it was either a cracked head or the injector. I don't want to use that injector again without testing. If it tests OK then I...

Has anyone here ever sent an injector off for testing? There are quite a few offering the service on Ebay with prices ranging from £7 upwards. I am just wondering how well these services work.

I bought a good quality lead from this guy - enquiries@landrover-connectors.co.uk. It has worked very well.

If they don't cure a leak then the door may need adjusting. When the seals are fitted check by sliding a piece of paper between the door and seal. If it moves freely then door adjustment may be necessary. It is pretty easy.

I was only joking. I know people who didn't have home start push the car down the road.

Just pay them for the first mile and then you will be on open road for £2.50.

That is my plan. Trying to find a suitable engine without spending too much, as these discos aren't worth a lot.

Looking at this advert it seems likely that the block has been repaired. https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/89536190-cylinder-liner-c2x20634878 Perhaps I could have salvaged my block, but I bet these would take some fitting and with the cost of a new cylinder head etc. wasn't financially viable.

According to Rave the bores aren't sleeved. Cylinder Block The cylinders and crankcase are contained in a single cast iron construction. The cylinders are direct bored and plateau honed with lubrication oil supplied via lubrication jets for piston and gudgeon pin lubrication and cooling. It is...

The barrels do wear. You can add graphite powder to give some lubrication but it eventually clogs up. If you can live with having different keys for the drivers door and the ignition, then the britpart barrel is cheap and works well. There is a fix involving taking the barrel apart but it was...

It will take a lot of torque to remove the crank pulley and it might not even be the problem.

I was also thinking about the oil cooler housing.

When I first saw the bits of metal I thought it looked like bits of piston ring/piston but on watching the video it sounds like something else.