I thought it would be, but no! It was a hard plastic dome within the body of then unit. It had a threaded section pultruding out that the white sleeve screwed into. The led/lights then push into the white sleeve. Upgraded to LeD but saw no difference, so I had to remove the green dome. Drilling...

Nope. The old one showed hotter than it was. This one showed the correct temp. Nothing has changed other than me taking the guage out, drilling the back and putting back in. I assumed it was the wiring, but all looks right (took photos before I pulled the cables out)

300tdi. As soon as I start the engine the gauge creeps up. Within a few miles it’s redlining. I know it’s false reading as the engine is still not hot, electric fan isn’t on etc. This happened last month when I put a new 300tdi in out a disco, turned out it was the wrong sensor for the gauge...

I fully appreciate 'sale price' vs my personal labour costs. I'm keen to get a 'cost to replace' value so that if the worst happens, i will be able to get a similar car and have the ability (finance) to bring it up to the same condition. I thought that was kind of the point of the agreed...

AF dont let you speak to the valuation people. You pay them £15, send them all the info (including what i think the value is) and they just reply with a different figure. I've done this before and it seems they just knock you down by a certain %. I dont understand why though - the premium goes...

Having just finished a rebuild, i'm trying to get an agreed valuation for my 90's insurance. Adrian Flux are giving me a 'sale price' or 'forecourt' valuation, but i'm trying to get a 'replacement cost' value. Adrian Flux told me to get an independent valuation done and they'll review this...

Thanks. Is it 4mm back it needs to go? Or will it come to a natural stop point? Should i get the calipers out or is there an easy way to tap home to 4mm?

any thoughts? hoping to install tonight. Cheers

the seal that comes in this kit, does the seal sit flush with the casing, or recessed back 4mm? I've heard both options depending on the seal, so not sure what is right.... Thanks

The ones Marksman linked to? The hole in the speedo is 14mm dia and there is only 14mm clearance before the LED will clash with the inner metal work.

Yeh this was my 'if all else fails' as i dont imagine it will be a great connection. I would have expected it to break off when pushing the dash back together.. But worth a go if i cant find another solution.

Looks like that could work. I assume the existing/replacement bulbs are T10? And then just hoping (or maybe you know?) that the push in part will fit the hole in the speedo? Probably worth a shot anyway!

so i installed the eBay dashboard leds, but saw minimal difference. I read that there is green film in the housing, so remove that for better light. Well, it wasn’t film! It was brittle plastic within the speedo. The back of it stuck out the speedo and had a thread on it where the white light...

Thanks for all the help Jamesmartin. Looking at this link: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/dual_brake_conv.htm and all my old photos, i'm confident i had a Type 80 originally as it is wider and not as fat as the type 50s look. While type 50's say "up to HA701" that my one conforms to, the...

STC2878...thats another number then! haha My book says Type 50 is NRC4775. Is that different from the SRC2878 you've noted? I dont have my original one anymore to measure it. The valve could be top left or bottom right depending what way i hold it. I assumed its orientation from the writing...

hmm... How do i match these up then? Parts book shows 2 servos on page 582, with only notes being Type 50 or 80 and the dia difference I've just seen another page that shows a different servo number STC442 from HA7 to LA9 (my 90 is an FA41, so too late for mine). For the master, the original...

Would it be based on the truck, or the engine? Given it gets the vacuum from the engine? Its a G reg 90, so would suggest a type 80, but its a 300tdi engine. I'm wondering what the difference is with spec so i can confirm if i have the correct one.... As a side note, while the part may be...

Landy garage recons my new Servo is the fault with my brakes, so i need another new one! I replaced my old rotten one with a NRC4772 (type 80) as the non return valve was top left and dia was 276mm. But nothing to say it was the right one! So other than diameter and location of valve, does it...

Not sure. I dont think i'm losing a vacuum as even 24 hours after the engine stopped, if i pull the hose out the servo there is clearly still a vacuum. Any other thoughts folks? Really at a loss here!

If the nut on the rod is right back up at the 'dome', then must be the servo? Does this mean another new servo? Kermit, what did you over adjust? The rod? Any suggestions on what/how to test or issolat to work out what's going on? The fact I have pressure building in the pedal as I drive is a...