I also wondered if it was an optical illusion, but the other symptoms suggest not. Like others have posted, this sounds like an ignition timing problem. If you have a good strong spark from all your new ignition components, plus incorrect timing, it's possible that the wrong cylinder is firing...

Yep, it probably is as simple as grounding one of the wires to the warning lamp. With the older series-wired glow-plugs, the warning light is across the resistor, but now that you've bypassed the resistor, the lamp is not getting any voltage across it when the plugs are on. So just take one of...

Taking the + feed direct from the alternator will be fine. The theory behind connecting this as close to the battery as possible is to compensate for any resistance in the cables, but this will be minimal in most cases and, as you say, later alternators are machine-sensing anyway. I think it...

I agree that 14.8V is on the high side, but not extreme. A wet cell battery might gas a bit, I'm not familiar with the sealed cell batteries but I think only the gel cell types need to be charged around 14.2V. As per Rob's post, the 4TR senses the battery voltage from its + terminal and will...

Good news indeed! Yes, it's strange that the readings to and from the field are different, but if it can deliver 21A for 30 min I'd say it's working ok. One thought: if the field brushes are well worn (and they might be after 50-odd years) there might be a build-up of carbon in the brush box...

Hi OldV8, OK, that clears up that question! Well, you could use an old-school regulator if you want to. I'm wondering if you have a problem with the 22AC alternator where it's drawing enough field current to overload the 4TR but still works with the tough old electro-mechanical regulators -...

Hi OldV8, It does sound like your 4TR has died and at £30 each it's probably not a good idea to keep replacing it without further investigation! 3A field current doesn't sound excessive to me (unless someone can advise otherwise?) and the regulator did seem to be working if you had a steady 14V...

I'm also (slowly) rebuilding an engine for my LWB Ser 3, but haven't reached this stage yet, so was waiting to see what responses you got from the experts. A quick thought: are you sure that TDC on the crank pulley is accurate i.e. No 1 piston is right at the top of its stroke? I'd be tempted to...

Hi OldV8, Well, it sounds like your alternator is healthy! Hopefully a new regulator will get it charging properly. I don't think it makes a significant difference if the alt field is connected "backwards" - it will still create a magnetic field and the alternator will produce current. With a...

I don't have the Autosparks loom, but I spent some time making the brake warning light work on my 109 military, which has a "press to test" switch. I think the white/red wire in your loom might go to the starter solenoid, with the extra tab for the wire from the ignition switch. Then the other...

Hi Old V8, With your first circuit, as Rob said, there will be a small current into the regulator when the ignition is off. Not a big problem, but may drain the battery over a long period. The second circuit should work, but doesn't improve on the "standard" circuit from the manual. If you have...

Hi OldV8, When I first looked at this circuit, I also wondered why they didn't just connect the field to the switched ignition feed. I think the reason is that any voltage drop through the ignition switch would then be seen by the regulator as a low output voltage and it would increase the...

Indeed "old but useful". It's interesting how much detail they provided in the workshop manuals back then - nowadays an alternator is treated as a black box to be replaced without doing much investigation... Here's the diagram from Rob's manual (right way up :)). I think this is how your Landy...

Hi OldV8, Your post reminded me that I also have the Autobooks manual (I prefer it to the Haynes for some jobs) and it does indeed refer to testing the field relay and also the 3AW warning light unit, although it doesn't have any wiring diagrams with either of those items! So I guess you have a...

Last time I saw an 11AC was on a 1968 Jaguar 420! There's a circuit diagram on this site that looks like it's similar to your setup (NB the diagram is positive earth): http://www.reizendemoke.be/techniek/manual/engielec/4.htm You don't need a cut-out to prevent reverse current flow into the...

Yep, those relays are generic and the socket you linked to will work. There are two types of relay: A and B - you can figure out which you have by looking at the terminal numbers and comparing with the info here...

It should be a BA7S - have a look at this link: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/672/category/92 The hazards should still work if even if the bulb has failed - maybe the switch needs a clean?

The 3MB starter dog is a 1" Whitworth, or as Rob said you can move the whole vehicle in top gear. With the plugs out you might be able to turn the engine using the fan belt - this was how I used to gap the points before installing electronic ignition.

According to the manual, you need these parts (and a bit of plumbers' PTFE tape or thread sealant):

The hole between the speedo and gauge cluster is used for the trip odometer reset cable. If you don't have a trip odo then the hole gets used for all sorts of switches and lights by owners over the years... Given it's a green light and connected to the flasher unit, my guess would be it's for a...