Why suspect the MAF? Sounds more like turbo boost modulator valve shenanigans (for example). I'd get the codes checked before chucking £££ around

Bear in mind the real goal of a temp guage, which is to tell the non-mechanically-minded driver whether their engine temp is within normal operating limits. Seems to me they could have gotten away with just 3 positions! Personally, I'm very happy with the non-linear behaviour of the standard...

Same here The sound is wonderful - I've seen some describe it as boomy, but to me its more 'grunt' with a lovely top-note of turbo chirrup. Certainly been driving with a big smile since switching to the straighty

The connectors on these are VERY easy to snap when removing headlining to fix a leaky sunroof. It's very easy to pop out to check tho BTW: if you do need a replacement, it's the same pattern as Rover 800, and cheaper on fleabay in that incarnation e.g. Rover 800 Rear Interior light | eBay

Were the new mounts genuine? Judging by some experiences of others on this forum, non-genuine replacement mounts are a known judder b*gger

+1 - buy genuine when it comes to top-hose. Here's how it went for me with non-genuine: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/td5-top-hoses-263893.html

Lovely idea sierraferry - think I'll order in a similar kit, for when the inevitable happens.

Well I just fitted my 4th hose in 2 years No 1 came with the disco, and wept slightly from the bleed screw hence... I fitted no 2, a Britpart hose. The reinforcement failed after ~ 1 yr and it inflated like a balloon, hence... I fitted no 3, an OEM hose. This one was OK until I tried to bleed...

Heated windscreen

Could be overboost (possibly due to knackered boost valve - easy to fix). Certainly that's exactly how I would describe the overboost symptoms I experienced - just refuses to rev when you put the boot in, almost like it's on a limiter

The gearbox on the motor may have has seized (they seem to be undergreased or they dry out or summat...), if you suspect this pop the cover off the gearbox and sort it sooner rather than later. I left mine a few months and by the time I got to it, the wiring on the motor overload protector...

Mine used to do this. Then one day it completely packed up on the missus while I was away on a work trip. Trailer to DLS and one fuel pump later, it doesn't do it any more.

One tip: make sure you locate the belt grooves in all the pulley grooves correctly. Off by one *will* shred the belt - I speak from experience

Is it an auto? Auto td5 will turn over but refuse to fire if it thinks it isn't in P or N. Touch wood, moving the selector through all the gears a few times has always worked for me

Ah bowlocks, so it's a D1 then? I think I'll leave the OP as a fitting monument to my ignorance and/or terrible eyesight

Bored 5 minutes at work and bumped into this whilst reliving cherished comedy moments on youtube: The Smell Of Reeves & Mortimer - Country File - YouTube Think it's a D2, but video compression is too awful to be sure. I fondly imagine that like any respectable D2, it got revenge the next...

I had a similar issue about a year ago, so I disconnected the coolant temperature sensor and prodded it with a multi-meter to check the resistance was roughly in spec. Didn't find anything out of whack, but I never had the problem again after I plugged it back in. Must have been dirt or...

Fitted new Td5 water pump, and new top hose to replace the one that heat-failed (old one was 1.5 yr old Britpart). This time I used the spring clips that came with it, having realised that Jubilees don't do heat compensation Then changed oil and filters, then overhauled rear prop UJ's went...

+1 on the grabbers - had the same tramlining problems, and the grabbers fixed it

Have you tried a stopleak fluid? Mine had a slow leak for several months, 'slow' as in just enough to keep the drop arm looking wet without actually ever dripping on the floor or needing a top up. If it was up to me, I'd have left it like that but an imminent MOT forced my hand. So one bottle...