Get the engine number and you can tell if it's in the right era. Assuming it's a series 2 chassis, the rear check straps should be flat on the chassis and there should be no brace between bulkhead support and chassis rail. If you're happy with a series 3 bulkhead (and why shouldn't you be) then...

Make a shim from a drinks can?

I'd say most likely to be release bearing but if the engine is out its a 30 second job to check. I guess you've put a new clutch in but it's still worth checking if a plate stuck, picked up or has something in it. When you say it was screaming ingear, you mean as you were driving?

Chassis is the important thing. Series 2 will have gussets on the crossmember at the front of the gearbox. The area by the front flexis is very different as well. But the cross member is easiest to see.

Thanks. I'm still collecting my thoughts on ACR. Not all their engines can be like this, I think I must have had the new boy - I mean missing cam thrust plate and blasting grit all over the place, ffs. It's not easy to find opinions one way or the other, they don't belong to an industry body...

Interesting, I didn't find any references to that problem. But if they grind down the rockers, it must have happened before. I didn't really fancy grinding the rocker in case it affected the temper or strength. Yet another point for turners over ACR.

I'm not getting the mushroom one, it looks slightly tacky. I'm getting the hearts one, so if you follow me then you're looking for something else.

Cool. Ordered mine. Thanks.

As above, LEDs do last longer but cheap crap ones, not so much. I'm told that LEDs are more sensitive to poor earthing due to the lower draw so that could also be a problem. The reason is that theŷ don't flash faster when a bulb goes is because you've fitted a solid state unit for the new bulbs...

Glad is not the word. But I'm kicking myself for not realising earlier, it explains all the disappearance and reappearance of compression. I blamed my eBay compression gauge and started not to trust it. Guess I have to apologise to it now.

So the engine runs but not well at low revs and doesn't start well. Still seem to be problem with in inlets on cylinder 1 and 3. Abit desperate now, I noticed that the valve stems of the inlets of 1 and 3 protruded slightly from under the rocker pad. Cylinder 1 photo below. Clutching at at...

Every time the valve timing is set (which is lots), I do the fuel timing. I have also tried rotating the pump while the engine is running, which is interesting. It changes the idle speed but I'm never really sure which is better or worse.

Still thinking there was a problem of some kind with the valves. So I got out the timing disc, dial gauge and workshop manual. Checked the mark on the crank sprocket (exhaust peak on cylinder 1) and found it to be 109deg BTDC. As in the manual. The mark on the cam sprocket is linked to the...

When last we met, the engine was running but only on two and a bit cylinders and not very well at that. A local agricultural engineer recommended driving the engine hard for a while to bed in the valves. Wasn't convinced by this but tried anyway. Didn't work; maybe it would on a tractor but not...

One final thing to bare in mind then is that cam lift is not the same as valve lift due to the unequal rocker arm length. Don't know specifically on these but it tends to be about 1 to 1.2.

If you're keen, put a layer of plastacene (sp?) over the piston. Oil the valve head and turn the motor over. Then cut the stuff and measure the thickness at the indent point. Never done this on a landrover but on bike engine the clearance could be 1.1-1.5mm without being scary. You can also use...

Yeah, that's what I said but with colouring in.

Those are definitely the figures from the manual. And you may have to think about the engine a bit more. Even an low tuned engine will start to open valves before tdc, the plan being that the piston will have gone by the time the valve occupies the same space. Also bare in mind that the cam...

Depends what you call expensive, I suppose but.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/005098-MOTORCYCLE-BIKE-ENGINE-CAM-IGNITION-TIMING-DEGREE-DISC-TRIUMPH-BSA-NORTON-/232168337107?hash=item360e4faed3:m:mVlJwGgZvykrKC3q2OEs7dw For example

Well done on matching the engine data with your measurements. But I'd still say use a timing disc, they're so cheap and (I would normally say) more accurate.