Dunno really. Too efficient a radiator seems the least likely to me and doesn't even explain it properly but an electric fan won't hurt and if it cures the problem, I suppose that's good.

Just a thought, but you did flush the block when you changed the rad, didnt you?

Don't know about the tyre makes but if you put higher profile tyres on, the speedo underread will be worse because you're gearing it up.

Have you tried this experiment with a working water pump as well?

I'd carefully try flushing it with brake cleaner assuming that doesn't affect the substrate. Either that or coat the rest of the vehicle and your house with ep90 so you get used to the smell.

Another vote for Fertan here. Because you can mix it with water it penetrates surprising deeply. But as said, it converts rusty rot into more stable black rot.

He's not talking about stainless tube but braided hose, which should way longer than cunifer.

Long time since I've done it but you can buy braided line off the reel then make up your own unions with crimp or compression unions. More expensive than copper and the line is very abrasive so you have to be careful with routing.

Looks like 19j but the easiest way is the look at the engine number over the lift pump. If it starts with 19j then it's a 19j.

Still think it's the flywheel housing but the bit of the sump that goes over the rear main bearing cap needs to be well sealed. Also sometimes the sump is over tightened and distorts.

I guess you mean flywheel housing because there's no way you can replace the oil seal without taking the flywheel off. To do it properly, you need to take the housing off. The seal guide included with a new seal needs the housing off to work. I don't think the rear crank should leak as the oil...

Sounds like the flywheel housing/block is leaking. Did you a gasket or sealant or is it the old o ring type? Could also be the bearing cap but I'd say rear crank is most likely given that it's been disturbed.

When you engage a gear, are you talking about with the wheel in the air.?If so it may just be that the diff is favouring one side. You need to load the left and see if the right starts to turn.

Depends on the spanner but you'll need to take off the cowling (if you still have it) and the fan is probably a good idea if you don't want to lacerate your knuckles.

Big spanner on the crank nut. Take the glow plugs out otherwise you'll struggle to turn it over. Unless you have bionic arms.

I've got one of their folding stands and it hasn't collapsed or caught fire, so it's all good. Take the bell housing off and bolt the engine to the stand using the widest spread of the legs. So as not to worry about bolt length, I just got some m10 threaded bar and nuts then used that instead...

just done my road tax. Historic vehicle, no cost - hah, screw you, mr.taxman, you'll not get £295 of my money. I win. On an entirely unrelated note, I have spent around £500 in vat on parts to keep the heap on the road.

Think you're right abou the vin plate, it looks very new and appears to only held on by one screw. No brake servo though, which is a (small) tick.

Not 100% sure what you mean. The vin plate is easily replaced and means very little. Unless you find the number on the chassis (not easy at that age) or identify the chassis type than you can't be sure.

Ooo, ooo, get the v6 one. I like that. The one you're looking at is nearly twice what it should be. And that assuming it's not a series 3 with early wings glued on.