bankz5152

bankz5152

Well-Known Member
Evening,

Thought I'd replace the shagged caliper today, last I checked the brake pipe union would come undone few weeks late no such luck started to round :mad: yes I'm using the proper union spanner just never had any fooking luck!

Previously in my 110s life the majority of the copper lines have been replaced and not particularly well either, I'm wondering If I can have a someone make up some custom SS braided lines? To replace the copper pipes on the rear axle? It has ABS so the idea was to run the braided line along side the ABS wiring and use cable ties every 2" or so to keep them full secure and out the way.

Any downside to doing this? A waste of time and money? Am I better off spending all day with the wretched flaring tool?
 
Long time since I've done it but you can buy braided line off the reel then make up your own unions with crimp or compression unions.
More expensive than copper and the line is very abrasive so you have to be careful with routing.
 
I feel your pain. I hate undoing brake unions. I keep all mine covered in a bit of grease. Seems to make it a bit easier
 
I wouldn't use stainless steel tubing for brake lines - the fatigue life of it is not good enough, and on a LR, I would advise against it. Cunifer pipe is the way to go, and there are folk out there who make full vehicle kits, which if you CBA to flare your own is a good option.

http://www.lrparts.net/product/complete-vehicle-brake-pipe-sets.html?p=3

( I know "copper" is used when folk mean cunifer - trust me, you don't want copper either )
 
Yes, Demon Tweeks 600 series hose and their compression fittings make a very decent braking system I've seen it done on a kit car - it wasn't me that made it, it was a friend, but seems easy to work with, effective and MOT worthy. I was a bit apprehensive about the compression joints popping off under hard braking but it seems perfectly adequate. If you swap your axles on a regular basis they've also got some quick release connectors, but I've not tried them.
 
Disco1BFG said:
I wouldn't use stainless steel tubing for brake lines - the fatigue life of it is not good enough, and on a LR, I would advise against it. Cunifer pipe is the way to go, and there are folk out there who make full vehicle kits, which if you CBA to flare your own is a good option.

http://www.lrparts.net/product/complete-vehicle-brake-pipe-sets.html?p=3

( I know "copper" is used when folk mean cunifer - trust me, you don't want copper either )
Click to expand...

He's not talking about stainless tube but braided hose, which should way longer than cunifer.
 
I just use copper nickel got a nice sykes tool its worth the money if you have a landy and it don't take that long to knock up a few brake pipes
 
Cheers guys. I decided to buy a flaring kit and a new SS union. Going to attempt to reflare the current brake pipe and go from there.

If I screw it up theb ill took to a braided line, found a place locally that will make one up while I wait.
 
The only time I've ever had real trouble with brake pipe unions was when the pipe was ever so slightly too short which meant that it was difficult to get the flares to match up properly before they were screwed together, often leading to the unions getting cross-threaded.
Instead of trying to "re-flare" the end of a pipe already in situ, I'd be tempted to cut it back a foot or so and make a completely new end with a piece of cunifur and new unions, especially if you're not in the position of being able to replace a full pipe run.
 
Last edited:
All done! :D Thanks for the help and suggestions. I bought a Draper flaring kit and an M10 Stainless Steel union. Cut the brake pip off the calliper with the Dremmel, carefully straightened to pipe, fitted the new union, flared the end (almost perfectly!) and re-bent the pipe around my hand. All done and dusted in under an hour including the calliper swap.

Not sure what too us so bloody long last time!

Brakes are bled and there don't appear to be any leaks at all. Got a nice hard pedal now too!

20170328_194104_zpshwsf6nvw.jpg
 
Last edited:
bankz5152 said:
All done! :D Thanks for the help and suggestions. I bought a Draper flaring kit and an M10 Stainless Steel union. Cut the brake pip off the calliper with the Dremmel, carefully straightened to pipe, fitted the new union, flared the end (almost perfectly!) and re-bent the pipe around my hand. All done and dusted in under an hour including the calliper swap.

Not sure what too us so bloody long last time!

Brakes are bled and there don't appear to be any leaks at all. Got a nice hard pedal now too!

20170328_194104_zpshwsf6nvw.jpg
Click to expand...

glad u got it all sorted out

hope this doesn't come across as rude, how come the bottom pin is longer than the other one :p:D

time to hide i think, lol
 
Maybe you need a shorter pin kit. They come in various lengths with longer ones for vented discs and shorter ones for solids. When you've got the right one they sit fairly snug against the caliper at either end. I know this because Paddocks have a tendency to send me the wrong one.
 
Glad you got it sorted.
I too want to replace my entire brake pipe system with braided pipe.
I remember Mr Noisy fitted them to his D1 V8 a couple of years back. Looked very smart.
 
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