I have made a note in my rebuild book, to place small countersinks for the bolt holes on the timing case...I read or looked at a video somewhere and I think it was pertaining to timing belt premature wear. I think it was suggested as means of ensuring proper torque on the bolts. from what I have...

The dreaded black wire corrosion. You will have a tough time soldering onto the corroded wires, even with flux and well cleaned. You will have to flatten the wire so that you get all the strands clean if not you wont have a proper connection. While at it, look for loose insulators as I have...

As a reference BTW, the lower CHRA is from the original 300tdi T250-4 turbo.

Some do...having lived most of my life in Canada in one of the coldest cities..I focus more on CCA than Ah rating. Having to crank a motor overnight at -40 degC makes us seek more CCA than Ah ratings.

Hi Guys, I know some guys went the GT2056V VNT turbos on the 300tdi lnadys. I have experienced that quite a few have had their internals blow up, 8 months old. These are OEM turbos which came with the Nissan Navara. I have pulled a few down to rebuild and have noticed that the compressor nut...

Thanks Alan for the kind words..I dont know everything but I try to help...we will never know everything. I do try to stay on topic, so many threads deviate from the OPs question and the thread becomes useless...not saying that about here. Any flexible material will deteriorate over time...

Widgeon...indeed more CCA is intended for short bursts of higher current, which also means that the battery has higher current capacity so its Ah rating will also increase. More CCA is more amps overall...all up to how you use it, regardless if you need more crank up power (which more CCA is...

Ray I dont like your reply...Please replace "few" with "many, many, many, many, many, many, many" I dont intend to pull this down again. LOL

Ray and wammers..surprisingly the pilot shaft has no wear nor no grove, I have both types seals now, I will install the ribbed one sent to me by the great UK pal :) I will inspect again and look into shims as you guys suggested. Thanks for the replies mates...you guys awesome.

You are right Mike..if its working leave it and yes the original in many cases are better than new aftermarket..will leave it as is. I will do some resistance measurement at the pig tails..I am not sure if the gauge was working well since I stripped the landy the moment I bought it.

Bigger (dia) electrical cables is better and will have less resistance than smaller, for your application it wont make a difference. It will take a really long cable run for you to have any difference in resistance with the stock size cable. If you have a winch, a 1000 watt sound system etc...

We were talking FI hoses so with certainty, it was about turbo hoses in this case. I cant see the OP asking about a "high performance silicone hose" for coolant, fuel or oil. I was referring to the difference between using the stock rubber FI hoses as opposed to silicone...and yes good quality...

I have removed my fuel tank to check its condition, happy to say its in 99.9% great shape, just one 3 mm surface rust on one spot and some rust stains where the guard was rubbing the tank. I will pressure wash, sand, paint and maybe wax coat it. There are no leaks at all, but since the fuel...

I was in Miami for the holidays, had 2 inch 4 ply black silicone hoses mailed to my hotel. IMO, the silicone hoses are better in a few ways, does not swell, easier to clean and if getting oil blow by, its more resilient to being oil soaked. I always use T bolt clamps for all my silicone hose...

The world has got some great people... boguing sent me an original seal, mailed directly to me here... Thanks Mate, certainly appreciated.:)

Hope the bit from the old exhaust you want to weld in is long enough.

Yup, understood...

Hi Kwakerman, The reason I like the one I posted the link to is because of its rising rate and lowering rate feature, it supplies on demand and whats needed. The other thing is, some are gravity fed, so they have to be placed below the landy and close to the fuel tank. I will also look at...

When my Landy build is completed, I will go for this http://www.fisheriessupply.com/walbro-frb-variable-rate-pressure-limited-reciprocating-fuel-pump

I would think that the center section would be the easiest part for them to make/modify to fit the 90,110 and 130. If you can get a measurement, I can do the same here.