cheers David, but it's the second row seat that's jammed.

No springs, you have to change the whole lock, at about 70 quid a pop! Just did mine tonight, it's a fidley job but relativley straight forward if you got the right tools, an extra pair of hands is a definate bonus! Part numbers for the front doors are: FJQ 102880 - driver FJQ 102890...

Does anyone know how release the flip up on the rear seat on a TD5? it's the double one. The back rest folds down but then the base wont flip up, is it a cable release like the dickie seats? It just wont budge!

No, My superwinch has plenty of pull even on it's third wrap without a snatch, and has pulled me out of some deep holes when loaded to the gunnels with kit, it's never failed me or anyone else i've pulled out of the mire! Some would say it's underpowered at 9500lb, I'd disagree.

The TC system is a good one, however you can still have a center diff lock if you wanted. some gearboxes have the internals still fitted, some not. have a look at this link: Ashcroft Transmissions - Disco II Diff lock so yes you can have a center diff lock, and you can also wire up...

I have had nothing but good service from them, I ordered a TD5 radiator on the phone one afternoon and it was here the next morning, it was also the cheapest I could find. Helpfull, efficient service and recommended.

Can anyone help me with some photos of a Series 1? I am building a toylander for my daughter and her cousins by grafting an old mobility scooter to some plywood. I am getting to the stage where I am adding some of the body details and lights. Can anyone help me with some close up...

You wouldnt want it any other way! :)

officially you shouldnt skim a TD5 head, but some people have.

search out the sedimentor - plenty of threads on here, basically you'll need a 11mm spanner, lie on your back under the back axle and drop the bowl off, clean and refit.

The ride height sensors I doubt are the problem. Inspect them closley for cracks for sure and replace if they are. they are easily tested. There is a high chance that your compressor will develop an intermediate fault and that will be down to water ingrerss in the motor. This combined with...

sounds like the turbo gave out and the engine started to run on its own oil.

do an intercooler flush when you do the EGR and also clean out the fuel sedementor and change your fuel filter, both easy inexpensive jobs and will restore a little bit of power. Clutch forks are prone to wearing though.

it's a bit of a job getting the old pipe out, but possible if you find the right way of un-knitting it. be careful and inspect all clearences when you replace it, a simple spacer washer on the wrong side of the fixing tab caused the pipe to wear through and leak in the first place.

try this: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/300tdi-squeeling-belt-penny-trick-64595.html

yes

search: 'the penny trick'

it only works in low range, i'm sure you know that?

you've just gotta love the belligerence, Will he bounce back? Stand up and fight you faggot, the boys want round two.

the TD5 turbo dosent really kick in until you hit about 1800 revs, they are pretty gutless lumps without the turbo. there is also a good chance that your MAF is dirty and fooling the engine management computer into delivering LESS fuel.