Do you have a pic of the inside of your sump? Interested to see if the oil pump bolt chewed into the sump, which then caused it to sheer. Chain drive oil pumps are pretty common, Honda's use them, nothing inherently wrong with them, as long as they are designed properly! Mark

Hi What was the issue with No1?

If your happy with the mechanical timing (and its actually difficult to get wrong) then the actual injection timing or the injectors, sound wrong. Injection timing on the TD5 is controlled by the ECU. Just to check, did you double check your injector rocker clearances? i.e. at full lift, screw...

If it idles ok, it does point the finger at injection timing.

Does yours idle ok? Start it, let it sit at idle for 10 mins, should be ok, if it slows and stops its a flag that the copper washers may not be happy. Make sure the mating faces are spotless. Also, mine idled ok after a major rebuild, but as soon as I started to pull away, it started...

Ozzyboy, I really like your "solution"! A practical way of keeping your vehicle on the road! Landies may break but at least theres usually a way to get them going again. mark

I dont think putting them in oil will help. It just means the engine may be "tappy" at times,doesn't really bother me. You maybe lucky. If my head ever came off again Id probably replace them, but its unlikely as Im probably selling her (again!) in the next few months. If you do get your head...

PS When your head is off couple of things to note: Keep your hydraulic tappets upright! Use a piece of thick foam with holes in it. Use the correct sealant between the cam carrier/cover and the head. Get your injectors tested by a proper specialist i.e. Merlin Diesels.

Hi Been down this road myself, first time had to re-build the engine, after No1 Injector pocket cracked. Had the head welded but it was a bad crack and two months later it failed again. My two threads are on this section. Replaced the head with a new AMC head, far better quality than the LR one...

Yep already tried checking the pump area when reving, nothing obvious. Oil cooler blanking plug is ok. Hoses look good. They were rock hard during the pressure test and nothing dripped! Should get the test kit Monday, like to sort it before I chuck another 800+ miles on her next week!

LOL I was wondering if anyone was going to post that! And always use Google maps for nav, free and you get very accurate traffic info! I also have a couple of tyre sealing cans as well. I do around 2K miles a month, Bedford to Scotland again next week and Fort William and back two weeks after...

Kit ordered should be here Monday! Thanks

The pump is the obvious culprit, its done 201000 miles now! But nothing obvious, but if the seal/bearings are going it could cause an intermittent leak (in theory!) Did it cold, as per test kit instructions and again when hot, same result. The top hose and therefore the rad were def pressurised...

Chain....sorry thought Id dive in before some else did!

Sorry I could have sworn mine has two! But Im not about to crawl under and check!

Before you remove it, check the tightness of the both output cables. One of mine came off, battery died in about 5 miles.

I dont often get stumped on an issue but this one is weird! Ive been consistently losing water since the head was replaced July last year. Usually requires topping up every few days. Changed the cap twice, now has a genuine one. Leaks when its not running, small puddle under front in the area...

That was lucky! When I did my rebuild, the new genuine LR sprocket bolt came with thread lock on it, I also added more Loctite! Quick aside, apparently a Rolls Royce Merlin would run for just over a minute without damage, with no oil pressure!

Out of curiosity, who fitted your new box?

With D2 values so low now, it would not seem logical to spend out for a galv chassis. I dont see values of D2s going up "classic motor" style, there are too many about. But, if you plan to keep a D2, then making it as reliable as possible is worthwhile, so an AMC head and proper TLC is sensible...