Had to look them up! They profess to be for greater sealing than copper or aluminium. Can't say I've ever had an issue with copper or aluminium washers and I can re-anneal those and use again and again. They'd have to be super cheap to make me change.

Land rover engine tolerances are pretty poor. Have you ever measured the crank thrust clearance? A second hand camshaft would not be an issue.

Solar panel charger, old car battery and 12v lighting internally, with possibly a securityn light as well. As others have said, a small genny then for 240v lights and power tools when doing work.

Over night loss will be the difference between hot and cold surely! Is it continuing to drop over the following nights? When I had the td5 coolant issue we all dread I was getting a pressurised coolant system at first. Hard pipes very quickly. Later had the small pipe under the manifold go, due...

Just been through the same, none of the listed symptoms but a hell of a headache, no appetite and spent most of time sleeping. Thankfully loads better now but still locked in for a few days. I would never had gone for the test but someone suggested put down a cough, which hadnt started then, so...

Just a thought but rattling chains around in a tin tank with petrol sounds a little risk. What if a spark was created?

Hell thats adventurous. You'll be practicing for months unless you are some kind of undiscovered god of the aluminium welding world. I've tried many times and found without exception that you need training or better still a proper welder to do it. If you manage to work how to do you must publish...

14v when running is usually the norm, that's the charge voltage most see and indicates a good alternator. Anything at or slightly above 12v when not running sounds perfect for a 12v battery. I was always told the slower you charge a battery the better. Trickle charging therefore seems to fit...

Did you use the old drive belt again? Over tightened? Friend had a drive belt destroy itself and it turned out to be a stone or something like that wedged in between the bottom pulley and the belt. Alignment shouldnt be out unless wrong alternator used.

Who's snow?

At VERY low speed thats got to be a drop arm or track rod issue. If there at higher speeds then its got to be something to do with balance and probably the wheels.

If sure then thats good news, saves a whole heap of work. Not that its difficult its just heavy and time consuming. I guess after fixing the leak just bleed well to get heater clear of air then. Never had a fuel cooler leak so cant comment on that. As you have already suggested, sit expansion...

I had niggling small leaks, small splits in hoses, etc. but also the coolant system pressurised quickly (hard top hose). This turned out to be a classic cylinder head dowel failure. I say this only because it could potentially be very early stages so now is the time to diagnose and fix it and...

Check earths first, maybe even run a few about to improve earths at components. Nanocom?

I prefer the double ear or spring clip type these days but if I do use a jubilee I tend to get all my hose clips from our local Cromwell Tools

Yes count your blessings, at least you are safe.

I use a suction pump fixed to the bleed nipple rather than positive pressure through the reservoir. I find this works best for my motorbikes and therefore use the same for the cars. I too had a cheaper Easibleed system but no good for the motorbikes.

Rivets, I think you will need to drill them out.

Crankshaft main bearing problem thay say leads to crankshaft failure. As above and a few more vehicles.

I could measure the top and bottom diameter and length of taper if I have one in my parts bin. Don't know when this could be though as I forget these sort of things unless I go especially to look for it. Why not drop the TRE and measure it?