To effectively eliminate the de-tox equipment you will need to do at least the following: Remove the SAI gear if it is still on there Replace the distributor with one from a P4 or Landrover, 1967 - 1975. Replace the carburetor with a bottom adjust CD175 Those are the tree main items. You may...

Ignition amplifier.

Pretty simple/easy really. Some stuff is heavy or awkward, like getting the transmission out if you are on the ground, but really ….. it is a pretty basic truck. Something like front ball joints can be a pain, but if you have the right tools, pretty easy. Sound mechanical knowledge of 1970s to...

I got hold of a file for the dash mounted cup holder for a P38 and had it printed by a friend. It came up well. I think getting it done one off by a commercial company would be expensive though. Admittedly they have different kit, but my friend’s 3D printer took 30 hours to do the job.

Might be worth taking out the IACV and giving it a good clean, might be all your problem is. If you can find someone with a Nanocom or test book, reset the adaptive values. Takes two minutes.

I did!

Timing case chain might be the culprit.

Actually the one you need is the Nissens 70230, not the 70220. Both will fit, but the 220 has 5/8" connections and the 230 has 3/4" connections. With the 230 you can use 3/4" hose from the core to the engine pipes whereas with the 220 you need adaptors to go from 5/8" to 3/4", so just another...

How is your battery? Poor battery condition will trigger the transmission error.

No one is going to steal the wheels off a Defender, they just steal the whole truck. Replace them with standard nuts.

I think you will find they are UNF.

This is the kit you need. http://www.rangeroversolutions.com/

Both ANR units have plastic washers, SCX has steel ones.

It could be a number of things. Something simple like the grub screw coming out (or lose) on the selector shaft (had that happen, in my case I lost reverse, took 30 mins to fix), through to the clutch disk failing and breaking away from the centre, to a collapsed bearing in the box preventing...

Always use a thermostat. If you remove it completely you run the risk of the water circulating too fast and not cooling sufficiently in the radiator. If you decide to remove it, put a restrictor or plate in with three holes at 5/16”. I have had to sort this issue out many times over the years...

I would have to say that the thermostat seems to be a very hot one. Try fitting an 82° thermostat. These engines were designed (like most US engines) to run at 180°F. In later years they kept bumping up the temperature to try to meet emissions regulations etc. Make sure any thermostat you fit...

Sounds like you might have a problem with your idle control valve or throttle position switch.

How did you go with the rest of the job? All done and working?

+2 on the Audi core

I have had three goes at getting mine off, lots of grunt, but no movement yet. Tomorrow is another day though :)