If you can use a soldering iron, this works well: http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=39517&hilit=stereo

Nothing wrong with autos...... Mine has done 160,000 with no problems (other than losing all its oil through the cooler pipe once).

What you think is 3rd to 4th is in fact 4th locking up so the torque converter isn't slipping and wasting power. But I agree the change points do seem high. When I bought mine 8 years ago, going from a manual, it sounded to me as if the clutch was slipping all the time. I got used to it after a...

I can see that, but I would have thought that people like that would be looking to steal things from inside rather than the car itself, which as said a stoplock etc won't prevent. Probably best to make sure there's nothing in it, and leave the load cover open so they don't think there's...

I wonder whether anyone has actually had a D2 which has been properly immobilised stolen other than being towed / lifted away? I believe Fery is correct that the security is pretty good, especially for a car which is only worth a couple of thousand pounds if stolen. They're unlikely to be...

Following on re towing in D - I've found a couple of times that the gearbox temperature warning has come on if I do this when not on motorways etc and the torque converter is slipping. I now keep it in 3 (or even 2 if it's very hilly) - ie use it more like a manual.

I keep a very close eye on costs. Since I bought mine (2001 ES Td5 auto) in 2009 the average annual cost for repairs / maintenance / parts - some done by me, others by a local independent, have been just under £1,500. That's doing a service every year (about 8,000 miles) and a major one every 2...

The Td5 does run quite cool and at idle may not be generating enough heat to go up to 1/2 and stay there....

I removed the little nipples under the car as I don't go in for deep wading and they seemed to block far too easily. I also fitted a short pipe to the n/s one to take the condensate away from the XYZ switch. I think the original design dropping the water onto the gearbox was so that it...

Good tip.

I find the level can vary quite a bit if the car's on a slope front - rear or vice versa. Unfortunately my drive slopes a bit so checking is a bit hit & miss. As said, testing after the engine has been running is also misleading.

No idea of cost and it's not in my "urgent" list but will certainly report back as & when.

I admit his customer skills are appalling but I had a D1 done by B&A - when I sold it 7 years later there was no rot at all, even in the boot floor. I had my current 2001 D2 done by him when I bought it 6 years ago and again the rear chassis is still completely solid although has surface rust...

That's neat.

There's a green / black up there that feeds the interior mirror an (AFAIK) is only live with ignition on. I've used it for the display for my wireless reversing sensors.

Happened to me too. I agree, new pipes and I would take the opportunity to do a full oil / filter change.

I use 30 and 40.

Can't help I'm afraid but I certainly know the feeling. I could write the book on how to buy a lemon - although I did strike lucky with my D2.

The slight loss I had a couple of years ago was from the pump. It dripped from the bleed hole then evaporated. The UV dye was the only way I found it.

+1 - I have the same (wireless) and they work well.