I'd agree sounds like an earth problem to me.

I didn't even know I had side marker bulbs......

Correct...... They weren't standard but some people fitted them for autotests and the like where you needed to do handbrake turns. With them, you press the button to lock the brake on rather than release it. A bit confusing if your regular driver had a conventional type.

I've always pressed the button when applying the handbrake on any car I've driven for 50 years or so*. I can't see the point of wearing the ratchet teeth unnecessarily (quite apart from the horrible noise!) *Except a Spridget with a fly-off handbrake - remember them?

TBH I'm not sure what would make the brake linings wear as the handbrake should never be used when the vehicle is moving? I take the point about someone driving into it but I suspect the handbrake wouldn't hold it anyway so the pawl would be stressed anyway.

Is it not because with one wheel in the air there's nothing stopping it rolling away (if diff lock isn't applied)?

Mine only gets used once a year for the MoT - leave it in park otherwise.......

I find the cold air from the face vents quite irritating sometimes although I know it's supposed to be like that. Slightly lukewarm would be better.....

I've taken off the cardboard kick plate as the diagnostic socket always disappeared behind it and just left the socket dangling. It's well ot of the way even with my size 12s.

Once you have them you'll find it's so easy to get the fan off. I can recommend the ones Ryan Wild does - on the D2 web site. http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=6027

Sounds like a problem with the XYZ switch on the side of the gearbox.

I replaced the security bolts with ordinary ones. If someone wants to steal it they won't bother faffing about with bolts they'll just snap the whole lock barrel off with a bit of pipe. I want to be able to get it off myself having had trouble with wafers sticking in the past.

12.77 sounds OK to me. But voltage isn't everything...... Have you done a voltage drop test?

I agree. When I first had mine (first auto car for decades) I thought there was something wrong as it revved so high. Now, after 8 years and 60,000 miles I've got used to it. The Td5 auto in standard form can easily keep up with the traffic away from the lights / onto roundabouts and I've never...

I tend to be a bit more heavy footed and change up points are around 2 - 2.5K. Locks into 4th at around 56 mph. Sport mode never seems to make an awful lot of difference but can be useful when towing to stop it hunting between rd and 4th at 50 - 60mph.

Just get a pack of crocodile clips from ebay for a quid or so.....

I've had mine off twice to fix it but it always returns despite using aquarium foam in the plenum filter. Mine whistles slightly when I brake - I guess inertia pulls the fan across. For ages I was hunting for a problem with the brakes before I once tried with the heater switched off and blissful...

You won't see it till you pull the fuse box and split the casing (just a snap together effort).

I would check that under-dash fuseboard for water ingress which is very common and causes all sorts of weird problems.

I'd be looking at the release button assembly. As you suspect, the lever may have been forced, damaging the detent arrangement. Were you having any problems before? BTW I'm surprised at them doing a road test rather than a roller test.