To simplify a bit your troubleshooting, if your vehicle is in a safe area unplug the bonnet switch, let the bonnet unhooked as to not be necessary to open the door to open the bonnet, use wires or tape or what ever to let the a-meter connected between the positive lead and battery, lock the vehicle(neglect the misslock warning) then check the drain after more than 1.5 hours cos that's the time for the SLABS to go to sleep and the bonnet switch being unpluggd the vehicle will be in the alarmed status, if the drain is still high remove fuse F11 from engine bay fusebox and see if it drops or not...if it drops it means that the internal timer of the SLABS might be gone and it doesnt go to sleep as it was conceived
 
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What i can say for sure is that in reality the D2's "shut down poeriod" (i dont know what they mean by that) is 1.5 hours after the ignition was off cos that's how long the SLABS is still active only after that we can consider that all the systems are "at sleep"
 
Stupid question time... on the 10A setting of my multimeter I’m getting a reading of 0.04, is that 4 milliamps or 40? The more we think about the more we confuse ourselves! Lol
 
Stupid question time... on the 10A setting of my multimeter I’m getting a reading of 0.04, is that 4 milliamps or 40? The more we think about the more we confuse ourselves! Lol
Ok, if you had a reading of 7.50 on the 10a scale, what would that be?
 
5 milliamps. I like it you must be a maths teacher! We are easily confused !
 
According to the tables anything under 30 milliamps is good. If the vehicle is left unlocked it seems to sit at 68 milliamps
 
5 milliamps. I like it you must be a maths teacher! We are easily confused !
Happy to help. Not a maths teacher but can try and explain stuff so people understand it and also work it out for themselves - it's much betterer than simply giving you the answer!

Although the answer is 50 milliamperes... so your answer is 40.

4 milliamperes would be 0.004
 
Happy to help. Not a maths teacher but can try and explain stuff so people understand it and also work it out for themselves - it's much betterer than simply giving you the answer!

Yeah I agree cheers. Need to leave it unlocked with the multimeter attached to see what it goes down to, but the last couple of nights I’ve left it locked in the workshop and it’s been fine
 
Stupid question time... on the 10A setting of my multimeter I’m getting a reading of 0.04, is that 4 milliamps or 40? The more we think about the more we confuse ourselves! Lol
it's 40mA and it would have been 0.04 on any setting, the scale is set as the measured value to not exceed it to ruin the tool if it's not a proffesional one with protections or blow some fuse but the reading for a small value should be the same on all
 
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It seems that with the vehicle locked the draw is 40 milliamps. The problem may be when the vehicle is left unlocked - seems to stick at around 680 milliamps. Will test later to see if it ever drops at all with the vehicle unlocked

I found this online battery drain calculator, according to this a draw of 680 milliamps will run the battery right down in 4.7 days (113 hours), whereas a draw of 40 milliamps it should last 80 days (1925 hours)
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-battery-life
 
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Here's some results. Locked it's not a problem, but if left unlocked with the key in the ignition (position 0) it continues to draw 280mA. There's nothing switched on.

times.JPG
 

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