The rear wheel arch plastic liners are MASSIVE crap traps, they build up wet mud just in front of the rear wheels and rot sets in. I just did the driver side one on Friday on mine, it's a 2002 and the rust was JUST about to turn nasty, pulled the liner out, got all the flaky crap off and filled...

You are, of course quite correct, my bad! I went and did something interesting though that @Hippo might be interested, mainly because I'm sad and kinda like math problems. I've gone and created a hippo drive train simulator in excel... The first half of it is purely setting up the gearbox...

I suspect a universal truth in that - I've always found with heavy car work that taking a shortcut always takes LONGER as you have to unpick and do it properly. Plan the time appropriately, get the coffee on and take your time.

Balljoints wise if you want real quality go with Lemfoerder however you spell it - they're like the rolls Royce of suspension components. Can be had from Euro Car Parts for reasonable cash... The BMW boys used to use them on the classic E34s because they were the ONLY aftermarket ball joint...

If you have a crack, suspension components with balljoints in can be a massive pain in the arse once the threads are rusted. Before unbolting anything run through the exposed threads with a sharp screwdriver then soak them in oil - it'll come off a LOT easier.

Rule 1: If it says Britpart on the box, send it back Rule 2: If it says Bearmach you might be ok Rule 3: If it says Britpart on the box, no, really, send it back Rule 4: Goto Rule 1

Were you flexing the suspension at all when it went bang, like over a speed bump? I have a feeling that the ARB was redesigned in 2001 and if you use the shorter droplinks will foul something... Mine's been making an awful bang for a while when you take it over something that really flexes the...

I think you might be right about the cam or crank sensor. Does it stutter at all when turning over? The fact that you're getting nothing out of the exhaust is a good indication that it's not attempting to inject - so my money would be on a critical positioning sensor. It'll either be an ecu...

I beg to differ :) 100kg = 1000N give or take, at 1.2 meters that's 1200NM of torque The K series engine outputs 165NM of torque into the gearbox, which is x3.25 in first gear = 536 NM The IRD is a ratio of about 1.4 iirc? = 750NM Torque to the wheels. A 100kg bloke stood on a 1.2 meter bar...

I think the point you're missing is that a vehicle manufacturer puts a range of widths of wheel on a car. But to do this each WHEEL has a different offset. The hub stays the same. A manufacturer will not compromise mechanical performance by bodging the offset - so they will have a maximum...

The interesting thing, of course is that if the VCU is rotating at a different speed, heat is being generated. Which is an energy loss...

Possibly to see if the average tyre difference compensates for the tiny difference in front and rear axle speeds? What was the calculated difference between the two axles before and after they did the modifications?

Interesting fred, are you trying to see if the front wheels normally spin faster by a couple of percent from the factory?

It'll fit, and the gearbox will work, I was just wondering if the diff unit would have to be swapped out. Which it appears is the case. The T series shares mountings with the L and spent most of its production life mated to pg1s so there shouldn't be an issue there. We're going to pull the ti...

I agree that the engine was unsuitable - they should have brought the T series out of retirement really for the freelander and not used a light weight thrashy engine for it. Landrover already had experience of the T in the discovery MPi which are getting increasingly rare these days. But...

Hi guys, I have a question about how the actual gearbox works on a freelander 1. It looks like a standard PG1 box and is a standard PG1 externally - which means any PG1 box will bolt up, but my question is about the "diff" in the gearbox. Not the IRD and not the Rear Diff, this is...

Generally speaking BMW engines are subtly different for Manual and Auto versions, but in theory should work. The only major difference will be the injectors, but if it gets you running, you can worry about that bit later.

Might be a daft question, but you did check that the replacement head was flat? If it came out of a scrap vehicle it may well have been cooked badly - most scrap K series engines have been!

Depends on the tech that they use, I guess. They are what they are - a temporary bodge solution. If you need it to get you home then cool, but I believe K seal is a resin based solution? It bonds to surfaces and once on there can be a nightmare to remove. If it bonds, and works, you're quids...

If it's been sold by a dealer, they can't wriggle out of repairing it - regardless of whether it's the head gasket or just the fans not working. Even if you want to keep it, get the dealer involved - the day after you bought it, in good faith is just not acceptable.