Is it an edc engine, if it's not, the following applies. A non edc 300 Tdi does not have an "in the tank" fuel pump, only a mechanical lift pump on the rhs of the engine block. Its possibly is an air leak in the fuel system, but the primary filter/sedimenter above the rear axle sort of behind...

Yes mate, all good, by now everyone on here should know my feelings on the 4x4 accessories/parts business and it's effect on a bank account. But, hey, I was younger and more enthusiastic once and spent my share of hard earned on useful and useless bits and pieces to "improve" a vehicle that had...

There seems to be some different noises associated with flex plate failure, my mates auto D1 sounded a lot like what @gary brion is describing here, just a knock, knock, knock, like a big end, but not always there. Your plate failure was a doozy, many crack most of the way around only hanging...

Don't need to use heat, give it a good soak in WD40 or similar, remove the clamp ring, put the rod and rod end on a heavy steel block or anvil and beat it around the outside in the threaded area with a 2 lb hammer, keep spraying the threaded area with WD keep rotating the rod on the anvil/block...

You really are a "kinky" bugger...

It would be real helpful if you tell what year model it is, (manufacture date on the compliance plate in the engine bay), chassis number, diesel or petrol, simple stuff like that, all this information will enable pinpointing of the model and of the problem you may have.

Of course, many fourbys running gas shocks, granted, and when I say mine ripped apart it was in fact the bottom pin (threaded bit with rubbers), of the bottom mount to the axle that broke off at the weld onto the bottom tube section, gas gone, oil gone. These were not cheap or at least not...

Gas shocks, a lot of fuss over nothing, just my opinion, but a few years back I spent big money, (twice the cost of Armstrong plain hydraulic), on a pair of rear gas shocks for my Disco, headed off on a trip up the Old Telegraph Track, third day pulled one of these expensive "gas" shocks right...

Because it's aluminium it will stretch a lot easier than the high strength low alloy steel of a modern steel body, so it could work fine for you. The person who thought of that device is pretty clever, it takes a lot of guesswork out of guard flaring.

I have considered doing something similar to what you are doing for pretty much the same reason. I already have a cheap spare Disco D1 300Tdi manual with a rotted body, what I planned to do though was fit a series one body onto a shortened/modded D1 chassis, so I had the disc brakes and power...

VM 2.4 litre paired with the LT 77 gearbox and the BW viscous coupling type transfer case in the RRC. VM is indeed a nice little engine.

@threaders 1 , your solution to leaking around the windscreen depends on the year of your Disco 1, early versions, that is before the update, had a normal "rubber in flange" type of fitting, later versions, (post update, after 1994, I think), the windscreen is bonded into the frame. Early...

A mate over here bought a 1998 D1 for $2,500 then proceeded to spend another $17,000 on it, but he wants it to last him the rest of his life, not sure how that will work out. It's a lot of money on something that will probably turn to rust in the end.

It's a very common problem on the D1 Check the small guage white wire on back of the alternator, the female spade connector gets loose, pull it off the back of the alternator, squeeze it up a bit with pliers and refit it to the alternator, should be fine.

Frustrating but look at it as an opportunity to take a sanity break. Did my first Landy box out in our front yard on the grass, no rain though. Yes, I've not done a Td5 but a few Series and a few D1's, found sometimes it just needs that little extra pressure to get the spigot in, it's why I...

Done it heaps of times, never had a problem, I don't mean to put heaps of force on the bolts until something breaks but I always found to get a box back in with just a push by hand is like trying to land a man on Mars, especially the heavy ones, I've found the bolts give stability and power you...

To align clutch spline, engage fourth gear, a couple of bolts in the drive flange holes on transfer box and rotate output shaft to front while you hold the rear output flange or jam it to stop rotation. Once the spline slips in and is entered put a bolt in each side LH and RH of bell housing at...

My point exactly, good value to someone with good mechanicals to put into it and something such as that maybe the way forward for the OP. But your so right about most of these old cars being a road to poverty and disappointment, if it isn't a rare collectible example keep your spending on it...

Maybe buy a nice body/chassis one with toasted mechanicals and make your project dreams come true, if such a thing exists. But if as you say, you want to keep it a long time get the repair done as well as you can afford, then the project is only overcapitalised if you want to sell it, and you'll...

As JM has said it was one of the two rhs but it was a while back now so I'm not sure. It's only m8 dia but if you use a HT bolt to utilise the full thread depth and use washers to make sure the bolt is tightened firm against the lift bracket and the surface of the box the tensile strength of...