brianconwy
Well-Known Member
Hi James, i am sorry for asking all these questions. Is this the stud you use ( black arrow in picture )?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
yes but it is then front heavy
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
I think it might be a little easier being front heavy than rear heavy as it is now. At least one of us can pull down at the back rather than lift. At the moment it is laterally unstable. Thanks again.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
its the laterally thats worse
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
JM, how different is that R380 D2 gearbox to the one fitted to the later D1?
On my D1 I attached the lifting device with one of the bolts on the gearshift plate mount surface, (gearshift stick removed), and it was laterally well balanced and hung level front to rear, just requiring a light push to change angle for entry.
I also had the handbrake drum and backing plate off.
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
I don't suppose you can remember which one? It has started raining again. Having such awful weather. Oh for the luxury of a garage big enough. In a break in the rain yesterday re-centered the clutch plate and the alignment tool fitted a whole lot more freely. There is a chance of a dry period tomorrow afternoon. i will have another go then. Thanks you.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
the same but more front heavy
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
one of the rhs 2 ie drivers side, they would balance better fore and aft but a weak point unlike the 10mm stud
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Gazbo
Well-Known Member
As JM has said it was one of the two rhs but it was a while back now so I'm not sure. It's only m8 dia but if you use a HT bolt to utilise the full thread depth and use washers to make sure the bolt is tightened firm against the lift bracket and the surface of the box the tensile strength of that bolt is sufficient to support the weight. But for and aft balance might be an issue due to more weighted front end as JM has indicated.
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
We have got this far and no further.
We will keep perservering but the second picture looks a bit dodgy but I am hoping it is just camera angle.
We will keep perservering but the second picture looks a bit dodgy but I am hoping it is just camera angle.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
are clutch splines aligned , barring spigot bush been too tight if its that far manipulating by hand shouls see it go in you need to lift/ feel the box in by hand
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I can't see the spines but the transfer box output shaft isn't rotating when the crank pulley bolt is turned. Is it better to turn the output shaft or the crank? Thanks again.
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
After lots of pushing and wiggling, we lowered the gearbox back down and saw this (see photo).
Do you think this is the cause of the problem?
I have checked the drive plate is the right way round and alignment is still OK.
Can we bend those tabs up and what is supposed to hold the clutch pipe out of the way or is it in the way because of how we positioned it out of the way?
It is manual 2003 TD5.
Thanks.
Can we bend those tabs up and what is supposed to hold the clutch pipe out of the way or is it in the way because of how we positioned it out of the way?
It is manual 2003 TD5.
Thanks.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
yes bend the tabs and position the slave so pipes out of the way, i use a lever bar to push tabs back once box is up, lhs from engine bay rhs from underneath, once you have a few bolts in box can be lowered to give better access,to rhs bolt ,lhs wants box up
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
Other people have said they have had a problem with these and I meant to check but was in too much of a rush. Caused a lot of extra work. I just hope this is the cause of our problem. We seemed to be really close but splines hadn't meshed and top of bellhousing just sprung back. Thanks.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
they are an issue i didnt mention them as someone else did, i either bend or sometimes you can cable tie them up enough
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
To align clutch spline, engage fourth gear, a couple of bolts in the drive flange holes on transfer box and rotate output shaft to front while you hold the rear output flange or jam it to stop rotation. Once the spline slips in and is entered put a bolt in each side LH and RH of bell housing at horizontal centre line, start to tighten evenly each side, making slight movement of the rear of the gearbox up and down until the nose end of the first motion shaft enters the spigot bearing. At all times trying to keep the gap engine to bell housing equal top to bottom and side to side.
berg450
Well-Known Member
For me the hard part was to bend them back. I could do somehow the left one but gave up the right one. Next time I do some work in engine bay i will remove the cooler pipe which is fixed by those 2 tabs, as my egr has removed and it is for that (from oil cooler to egr)
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
i would never start the bolts or tighten evenly till its slid it up fully ,you run the risk of damaging the spigot bush
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
thats easily done at the time with a longish bar after other bolts are fitted by letting box down to give access to top of bell housing ,crank sensor and accoustic cover can be fitted at the same time
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