Mine is sitting on top of the LHFront wheel arch in the engine bay but it's a D1, I remember having to relocate something to fit it there but don't remember what, nothing significant though and I only run one battery up front, second battery is in rear behind RH wheel arch.

As said above, any combustible fluids/vapours present in the inlet air tract will cause havoc with a diesel, (like spraying Aerostart or similar into an already running engine), the revving up of the engine is due to uncontrolled fuelling from vapours or in the case of a worn out diesel engine...

Dragging brakes or wheel bearing problems.

One things for sure, the 4x4 accessory shop will never go broke while there's guys like you fellas around. I've got a cousin who has every extra bit you can get on his 4by, never had it in the dirt, but it makes a good conversation piece at the pub, he's on first name terms with his accessories...

If it has A/C check the evaporator matrix condensate drain tubes, the peristaltic valves on the ends that protrude to just above the gearbox commonly block with fluff and dust then the drain channel runs over onto either side floor.

Well, @Inkjets1 , looks like you've nailed it, both the original problem and the tagging. I missed your original successful tag, I've been off the air a bit travelling in Japan. And it's what Landyzone is all about, using previous experience with our problem vehicles to help each other out.

The tach takes a signal from the alternator via a fine white wire, if the alternator is stuffed I'd suspect it won't produce the required signal, the replacement alternator needs to have the facility to provide the correct signal, i.e a genuine type replacement unit.

1998 Tdi300, just turned up 217,000k.

Here in Australia the basic model "S" had a/c and power windows, central locking, but by key in drivers door only, no ABS and no airbags, mine even has absolutely no rust, and for the past 8 years been totally reliable, but the sun has stuffed a lot of the interior trim. It's a "keeper" it'll...

Buy the best and latest model, (1998) base spec D1 you can find, your bank balance will thank you, super-less complicated and more practical/functional than the later offerings.

Another tip, if you're "tagging" someone in a post use the "@" symbol at the start of the username, they know you've tagged them, @Inkjets1 .

Butane, many new fridges are using a form of it now, R600 or something. I gassed my Toyota a/c with butane years back it worked very well, until it all leaked out, the city taxis use it because it's allegedly far more efficient than R34a. Not legal where I live so I didn't do it!

Both our kids, son and daughter, as babes in arms started out riding wrapped up in a rug in the passenger footwell of the E type, that was, of course the '70's before child restraints and laws that went with them. Our son as a three year old, told his preschool teacher about the E type, "my Dad...

Probably the main reason I don't have a Jag anymore is because I couldn't get down into the seat, especially the E type, and to get out again, well, that'd be fun. And I'll have to dig up some old photos of my Jag fleet from all that time ago. I'd like one of these, reminds me of my pair of '66...

Like your choice, I had an E type and a pair of manual overdrive S types for 15 years 30 years ago. Disco Tdi is fast enough for this old guy now.

It's a 4wd ffs, not a sports car, if you need to go fast and own 4x4, buy a new Ferrari! The old 300Tdi has one big advantage over many other powerplants, it's got no or, in some cases, few electronics, it's easy to fix. It might be slow but it's better than walking.

Don't know if you've tried this but, engine off, chock two wheels, jack up another wheel, (just one), make sure the transfer box is in H or L and the main box is in any gear, (but say 4th gear), have someone rotate the jacked up wheel whilst you crawl beneath the vehicle and see if you can hear...

Just like the Steve Martin film, only old and maybe a bit more stupid, driving old Landys, not riding horses.

I purchased an electric vac pump off eBay, it was one to suit an Audi I bought, for $60 Au for my 300 Tdi Disco D1. There should be plenty available in breakers yards over there, you'll also need a vacuum switch/Non return valve off a Volvo or similar plus a couple of small relays. Every thing...

It would never see the inside of any vehicle repair shop, that's a definite, we, "the three (old) amigos" do all our own work, so all the stuff ups stay in house.