Could it be the exhaust hitting the chassis or gearbox?

Hi, welcome Got any pics of your landy?

That's strange, check the earth wire for the switch hasn't broke while changing it over. Im not sure which fuse it is, doesn't it say on the sticker on the fuse box panel? Might be a stupid question, but did you try the wipers with the ignition on?

Could you put the old switch back in temporarily to see if the wipers work?

Was it a britpart switch you got? Been known to not work when new. My light switch was like that. Check the fuse, see if that hasn't blown. If not then get your multimeter out and start testing the wires/earths

Hi, what was the reason for changing the switch? Did they work beforehand

Did a bit more to the bumper today, made the ends up that seemed to take forever, must have fitted it about 10 times lol. Still need to make some ends up where the plastic corner trims are. Also made the middle mounting bracket to use the 2 14mm bolts in the chassis. Didn't take many pictures...

There's a company called full flex springs that advertise on Facebook, I've not used them myself but they have good reviews. Might be an option for you

Just been looking online for the delete pipe, looks to me like the 2 holed flange is flared so won't need a gasket (I believe this bolts to the downpipe?), I unbolted this bit when I removed mine and don't recall seeing a gasket. The other end (3 bolt flange) looks like it would have one. Likely...

Td5 or V8? If you are getting a centre delete pipe I would have thought it would come with some gaskets, but I think the td5 doesn't need them as the ends are flared. I'm not definate as I cut mine off

The joys of land rover ownership lol. It might be worth changing the ball joint rather than just the boot. If you do make sure you get a lemforder one, don't go cheap. Also you might find the steering box seal has perished (on the spline that holds the drop arm on), which you probably won't...

Isn't there some sort of damper on the 300tdi clutch pipe line? Seem to remember something on mine. Not sure if these can cause problems

Bleed nipple should be above the pipe (12 o'clock). Wading plug is at the very bottom of bellhousing about 50 - 100mm back from engine block (roughly), think its a square drive

Possibly the slave cylinder leaking into bellhousing, is the wading plug still in?

As shippers says, ask in the discovery section of the forum, you will get more suggestions/answers. Is the vehicle battery new aswell?

Some nice work going into this. As for seals, I've used old inner tubes before (too tight to buy anything:D), wheelbarrow ones are a good size for most things

Hi, welcome. Sounds good, got any pics?

Hi, could be the fob battery going flat or the receiver in the roof packing up. Do you have the EKA code

Main bits to look at (incase you don't know) is the chassis and bulkhead for rust. Rear xmember on them is normally the first to go. You might get lucky and find one with a galv chassis. Good luck in your search

Hi welcome, looks like a clean fl2 you have. Steve