You mean this? https://bearmach.com/fuel-injector-o-ring-suitable-for-land-rover-td4-and-td6-vehicles-myx000060 Where is that located exactly?

Seems a silly question, but do you know roughly how wide is that pry-bar? I’ve one but it’s a bit industrial.

Yeah, that’s the one. From what I can tell, it’s useless spraying anything like PlusGas in there beforehand.

All noted, it is your how-to that I’m going to follow (assuming that was your post on the MG forum!)

I’ve bought a used but tested injector and then I plan to get the one I’ve taken out refurbished to eventually replace number 3. I’ve seen a video and/or a thread on how to DIY so I may give it a go, depends on how my nerves are after taking it out!

Next week is time for me replacing at least one of the injectors. I know #1 is over-fuelling and 3# under-fuelling so I'm going to replace #1 and see if that works for now. I've found some excellent how-tos on here and the MG75 group for the actual process of removing the injector, my question...

For £3k you'd be able to get a pretty spectacular FL1, in fact you'd be able to get a perfectly good one for less than £2k giving you the resources to do whatever upgrades, replacements you need.

Just be sure it is actually blue, because I thought mine was blue before changing but it wasn’t - the bottle just makes it look blue. That said, what came out was a very dirty red.

I'd love to get a roof tent, but a) it'd be impossible to get the dog in there and b) I don't think the 3-door FL1 has the same static strength as 5-door versions of either the FL1 or FL2.

Rear seats out of my three-door, and then the start of my ‘Cramper Van’ project for a 3-4 week jaunt around the north west/north coast of Scotland. Bunk built with space for underneath storage, custom cut foam mattress on order. Need to decide on the best way to black-out the windows.

It’s made me think much more about trailer loading and nose wheel weight, to the point where I’ve ordered a nose wheel gauge.

Finally got the tow bar and electrics sorted, frustratingly the LR OEM wiring harness is too short to run the full length of the bar, but it works. The trailer must have been 1200kgs and I was surprised how underpowered it appeared going up onramps etc. That said, I wasn’t expecting it to pull...

I certainly tried the all bolts in first thing, the issue is that I can’t get them all in loose first as even if I tried putting in the two troublesome ones first, they just wouldn’t go. I think I’m going to try the other option and widen the two holes in the bar.

Try as I might, two of the M10 bolts just won't thread themselves properly in to the frame. I've tried putting them in first, but it seems the actual tow bar (OEM, used) is just a little bit out - that or the holes on the frame are a few mm out. The rest of the bolts are secure, and the two...

That must be the worst breakdown company I've heard of! They sound like nice guys, but nice is no good when it's 3am and raining on the hard shoulder.

Today I cleaned-up a second hand, OEM tow bar I recently acquired. Tomorrow I will try to fit it, if all goes well I'll soon be towing a trailer with boats worth over forty times the value of what's pulling it along!

Did some cleaning of the engine bay yesterday. Decided it needed a treat after a painless MoT.

My FL1 passed its MoT the other day with the Bearmach EGR mod fitted, I think it helped that I let things get a little dirty in the engine bay so the bypass didn't stand out.

You have to access it from below, there should be a largish plastic box that gets in the way of your feet. Look under that.

I'd just bite the bullet and get a new set of four and sell your two pairs to recoup some of what you've spent. Depending on what you want, I spent a little under £400 on my new tyres and whilst a fair bit of investment, the peace of mind of helping prevent very expensive drivetrain damage...