You could just get a cheap eBay set easy enough to change. all done by pressing in a brass pin amd removing the lock. It just takes an age to get all the trim etc off. I bought genuine landrover when I did mine as 2002 on locks have changed. cost me about 80 quid but all on the same key now

it should have said it was on mtf after the rebuild to run it in, now it is on atf and is a lot quieter and smoother. It's also easier to select 2nd and 3rd and the specialist claimed atf is kinder to the syncros

just one or two. Can you tell!?

my td5 was horrible on mtf. I had it rebuilt by a specialist and they told me to run it in on mtg amd swap to hard after 1000miles they told me it' better on the syncros, it is certainly quieer and easier to select 2nd and 3rd

I would say try it. On paper mine on 33 inch tyres with a 1.2 tx and a td5 should be awful, and when the tx box was rebuilt I was going to fit a 1.4. But I do mostly motorway miles and have no issue even when towing

the pipes (front and back) go through by the heater. If you remove the passenger side speaker bit of the dash, that's where it comes through

agree with the pump out statement. Try doing the fuel pump prime before starting to see if its a fuel issue. With the ignition on press the throttle pedal up and down 5 times quickly. The pump will then start running with the engine ecu flashing. It will run about 30sec and stop,amd do this...

Ive just had mine replaced with a valero, dmf, release bearing etc. I had the tx box iverhauled too and cost me 1250 all in

injector seals would be my 1st port of call

selling my spare transfer box as I ended up having mine overhauled when my clutch and flywheel went. A long story short my landy was in a garage whilst I was away as the clutch went the day before I left and it worked out cheaper and easier to have mine rebuilt. My plan was to give this the once...

it's a 1.2 unit from a v8 defender so has the centre diff lock etc. I was told it was sub 90k miles and was working fine although I have never used it so can't be 100% I paid £100 and I'm happy to let it go for that

yes

siezed waste gate? try disconnecting it from the actuator and it should move freely. Mine did it when I 1st got it but has been fine ever since

my heater was crap too. in the end I fitted a boat bilge blower on the inlet to the fan so I could get a decent flow rate of air into the cab. The next problem was actually getting it hot enough, and once hot keeping it their! sit stationary with the heater on and it cools the motor down if not...

I guess I'm lucky, I've done the coolant a few times on mine now, the last being a full change and flush last week. I always remove the top bleed screw whilst filling and fill it with a little watering can and measure how much i put in. once the level has filled to the top of the expansion tank...

lightning, mine was the same. The clutch threw its hand I. Recently and I had the transfer box rebuilt at the same time. new dmf, pressure plate, friction plate, spigot ring etc later and its a different motor and revs a lot smoother

mines getting close too, but it doesn't feel any different to when I got it at 50k. If anything it feels better and loser, I have however changed loads of bits as they have failed, clutch, flywheel, starter motor, aux belt, rollers, tensioners, fuel pumps, filter housings, injector harnesses...

I personally would just treat it like any other service. I do a minor every 5 k miles, oil, filters, air filter greese props etc etc. A major every 10k all oils, grease and adjust wheel bearings, fuel filter. I get my oils etc cheap so I change everything regularly. Things like coolant gets...

try bump starting it behind another car. my starter motor died and it wouldn't fire up but was turning over fine. The starter was sending out magnetic spikes which was effecting the crank position sensor and the thing wouldn't fire up. Went straight away every time it was towed/bumped. New...

its a tasteful mod down by the previous owner. Lol