I wouldn' hold your breath. I know of a few that have ended up shagged due to cranks snapping, but ends going or the oil pump casing breaking and wrecking the motor. Land rover poo poo'd them all.

I don' recall undoing them. The only adjustment I made was to make sure the injector help stop was set half a turn or what ever it is once it was back together

I had a similar problem to the initial post with my td5 defender running great then boom dead... would crank etc but wouldn't go, no fuel pressure, new pump, no fuel pressure. It took forever and deep pockets to find. It was a funny little air bleed in the fuel filter housing. the white palstic...

As far as I'm aware you cant. Someone might be along to correct me shortly. But a chassis is just like swapping over consumables in the eyes of the DVLA. What you proposing is major structural etc and would set alarms off that it' a ringer. A cat b isn' Allowed back on the road either so no...

Sounds like the fuel pump. Of you put the ignition to the on position but don' crank you will hear it for 20 secs and then it will stop. They can be quite noisy, but they get worse before they break

Need help with this because I'm not 100% but isn' their a big black relay thing on the back of the engine bay that kills the engine in the event of a accident. Check that' working correctly. The reason I say this is my motorbike has a tilt switch relay to stop the engine in a accident and it...

Good effort that man!

I cut the floor to change rhe pump the 2nd time round

Sounds like injectior washers to me, engine gasses are getting into the fuel system and that' why it take so long to restart Have a Google,

Actually I would like to learn how to weld and wouldnt' mind learning on my defender. Being a solid 2003 the chassis is currently fine, but the doors on the other hand are way past their best. Due to a on oing divorce I can't afford new doors but need to do something with these

try rubbing the contact on the starter wire mine looked minty after offroading and needs a wipe when it' damp to get the starter motor to spin. Not joking. I need to clean the connections but I'm so busy with work I've not got round to it yet

I ad a duff wheel bearing do this to me. It failed quickly but wasn't making any noise. Well not a normal wheel bearing noise that I could hear.

I ran round for 3 yrs on the cheap britpart shocks. Worked brilliant at absolutely everything. Only changed them because I lifted it and put hd stuff on due to bigger tyres, roof racks, winches etc

always worth doing a fuelpump purge before starting incase your injector seals are going. Mine did something similar when the injector seals were shot

mine were removed when the transfer box was swapped. No real issues

Just ordered one off ebay for a tenner. I saw the original post a few yrs back but couldn't justify 40 quid

Mines 15p, I found it weeping from the top oring and had a damaged copper one too. My level was high so I changed them and the oil. CHecked the day after doing the seals and a oil change and the level had risen turns out that if I fill it on the dip stick the level jumps the following day. I...

I take it the grill needs chopping to fit a winch. It looks close.

I've got britpart front and back props and both are holding up fine and I do big miles

a few things to check. Have a look at the red plug on the ecu and check for oil. Does your fuel pump sou d any different? my td5 will start and rev when the pump.is dying but has no power and is rough as feck when trying to drive it