RF receiver is plug and play.

The main problem with trying to fit an earlier 3.5/3.9 is that those blocks dont have provision to mount the crank sensor,or knock sensors.

Can be done,I've done it a couple of times and mopped up for other garages a couple of times when it has gone wrong.All a long time ago,but one of the main things that the op didn't mention is changing the cam sprocket.The spokes are what the camshaft position sensor reads and are different...

Yup.

Two different things,immobilisation and the having the key symbol flash is one thing,the coded link between the alarm ecu and the engine ecu is another. The engine will still crank if its not got the correct link,but wont allow fuelling. Part of the reason why its quite difficult to nick a...

Needs a security relearn...

I base my reply on Testbook T4 readings from all the way back to 2003.OK, the refresh rate might not be too good,but 230KPA is where all the problems start.200 or even 210Kpa will give all the performance you need.

It's overboosting - 240KPA is too much.Wastegate arm on the turbo needs to be totally sloppy with the actuator arm disconnected. Airflow is top of the shop,but thats OK. You just need to get the wastegate to keep boost below 230...

Why the bloody hell didn't you say it's fine when it's warm ? If you think its the gearbox oil why even ask in the first place ?

Its overboosting,usually a sticking wastegate,I cant be bothered to do a full explanation,do a search - there should be loads of info.

Chain stretch AND worn pumps are both causes of poor starting and problems with timing modulation on diesel P38's. The hot fix kit works well,done loads as most people wont spend the £600 odd quid for a decent pump rebuild.Probably glows for your cold start issue. Try -...

Dont bother with Waxoil - its sh-te.... Dinitrol is much more likely to stay where you spray it.

Cant help with Defender TD5 reading a DII TD5, but my DII Nanocom happily reads Defender TD5 engines,most useful.

Genuine LR, only used a couple of times,c/w single LR electrics and all nuts/bolts etc. £50 collected or plus post.

Twas the injector o rings and washers that caused the problem. A £30 repair if you do it yourself...

That does sound a bit like a gasket issue. Some people just do a gasket,some skim no matter what.... I look at the TDI as a long lasting rebuildable motor - Check the head for flat,skim only if necessary,have the valves out and lap if needed.Changing the valve stem seals at the same time will...

But does ALL of the rad get hot, if yes get a garage to do a hydrocarbon sniff test of the coolant expansion tank to confirm a blown gasket / cracked head etc...

Could just as easily be a blocked radiator matrix or faulty thermostat. Shotgun parts replacement is rarely cheap OR effective...

Yep, I'd say it is a six, Google images may help...

Looks like a six to me - look carefully at the injector pipes and the layout of the glow plugs.