Is the rest of the chassis solid? - good question! Yes I have done the hammer test, but that only tells you so much and I understand it is likely to be worse than it seems - I know the rotting from the inside scenario so I am under no illusion that all is good. I have already replaced my rear...

That's the plan. I either buy galvanised or get a plain one galvanised - I just don't want one with that black "help it rot" paint!

I am looking at getting a replacement rear crossmember for my Defender 90, K reg (93). Looking around I have seen RCP do one that is from 3mm steel and includes the extensions. Has anyone used this type and can comment if it's good or bad? Alternatively, can you recommend a good one? Also...

Better finding out this way than when it causes your truck to overheat and requiring the cylinder heads on your V8 to be skimmed!

Would it be an idea to replace the braided fuel return lines (not sure that's the correct name) near the top of the engine? A cheap part to replace but if perished can allow the fuel to drain back when stopped. Being stood a long time would be likely to cause these to deteriorate. If the...

I have galv standard turrets which I have because I got them at a good price. If I was buying at full price I would probably go for the skeleton type as that way it is easy to clean off the cr*p and treat with your chosen rust preventative. What ever I gotvi would prefer galv. However, my...

Fantastic and well done

I bought some MTF to use in my R380. I never ordered a particular type but when looking at the label it's GL5. Unfortunately, after reading further posts, I see that GL5 shouldn't be used as it can damage the phosphor bronze and instead it should be GL4! I certainly don't want to use it if its...

Ha, ha. I used to drive series 3s for miles on the Autobahn when I was posted in Germany. Spedo dancing around 130kmh when going down hill on a certain stretch, constantly turning the steering wheel left/right to keep it in a straight line. I remember going down one particular stretch towards...

One more thing to be careful of with stainless bolts is galling. If done up tight stainless nuts can virtually lock on to the bolt, especially if using a nut runner etc. Our company did a stainless job and it was assembled using m10s (or most, can't remember which). The guys had to take it...

If struggling to find isolation washers and you looking for a thin material to make your own from, I find milk containers can be useful. Usually throwing one away every couple of days too! Easy to cut with scissors, flexible, usually to hand, and available in different sizes

No problem meego, I thought my rear hubs were similar to the front.

I don't know if these are any use?

Welcome - watching with interest! Good luck with this, I hope you make the right choice.

Have a look on the Internet at electrolysis rust removal. If you are stripping everything down it is amazing what will fit into a 200ltr drum. It deals with the rust whilst leaving good steel untouched. So far I have done rear axle case, springs, radius arms (hockey sticks), hubs, stub axles...

As they say... "5 hours, you were lucky!"....... Or replacing a wheel bearing, caliper wouldn't come off, ended up cutting it in half to get access to the rear of the bolts holding it on - ended up rebuilding swivels, cleaning the swivel housing with electrolysis, new stub axle, caliper, disk...

My friend was a mechanic from age 16. He ended up being one of their top technicians (before all the electricery). It used to p**s him off that the experienced guys got all the hard jobs where it was difficult to hit targets/bonus yet the apprentices got all the servicing work which was easy on...

Thanks for that lynall. It's good to know the actual reason for something as it helps remember - and my memory is dire! Do you if land rover actually fitted metal P gaskets to the 300tdi in later production? I wonder if that could be a reason for some suppliers recommending OAT for it?

I did another quick look on the Web and it says OAT can affect seals and pipes. I don't know just how accurate it is but I decided to take the cautious route and use the blue Glycol stuff.

I thought 300tdi and earlier were blue Glycol 50/50 mix. I looked into it and would have preferred the OAT stuff due to its longer lasting properties, but I sure I read it wasn't compatible with the engine. I can't remember what it was but I am sure that you will find it if you look on the Web.