Yes it wasn't blocked so a cotton rag and elbow grease was sufficient. What is sensitive inside the hole? :D

Is that a sintered-bronze bush for the turbo-wastegate pivot ? Mine was sticky, so decided to lube it. Hardest bit was removing the heat shield - two bolts above exhaust manifold were ok but the rear one was welded to the turbo. Luckily the rear part of the bracket was broken, so only had to...

Cleaned my MAP sensor, only cos I saw it somewhere on here... dunno if that mess was bad, or normal? before & after pics... ('01 D2 td5 auto 129k)

I just read this "somewhere else"... STD 90/110 FRONT SPRING measures 260mm +/- 5 mm The REAR SPRING should be around 300 mm +/- 10mm STD Disco/RRc FRONT SPRING measures 250 mm +/- 5 mm The REAR SPRING should be around 300 mm +/- 10mm I have no independent info, just thought this might be...

😆 Hands up if you've got a crystal ball for the answer :vb-weyes: :mexicanwave:

I did the patch on engine side first (below the brake servo) but welded it from below as access was easier - partly from the pedals side but mostly from in the wheelarch. Then I welded the patch below it, mainly from the wheel side but also a few tacks from inside the footwell. I made (but...

Take a load of pictures, post them online (here if allowed, or ebay, or autotrader) to get the biggest potential audience. Be truthful about the dodgy bits as well as the good bits. If you Can't get an MoT without spending any money, then you might get £300 off a scrapyard. If you Do get an MoT...

Water does get into that spot on 3 sides - 1 condensation / leaks just above the carpet/ insulation, around the weld-point 2 in the wheelarch & partly covered by the liner, which can trap moisture-laden dirt against the joint 3 inside the engine compartment, behind the soundmat which again traps...

Mine had holes high and low... The low one was easy enough, but the top one was right where the bulkhead met the inner wing. Managed to weld it up, but was so relieved to be finished I forgot to take pictures. Relieved as in, loads of smoke but happily, no fire... Also, Really close to...

I used a sharp knife and cut away the bottom 3 or 4 inches behind the arches to allow access for inspection & welding, and to keep it away from the newly painted surfaces.

Wheels are D1 - stud spacing is smaller on D2 Doorhandles & engine are D1 Its a D1 and looks nice ! Not keen on the price though...

In the absence of an asking price or pictures... Any potential buyer Should think like a motor dealer in buying mode... Like - what can I sell it for, then deduct whatever it might cost to fix it and make it saleable... So - If a dealer might ask £3,500 for example, but if it will cost £2,000...

I had a blown indicator bulb (in bumper) which made mine flash like crazy, and even when replaced (easy) it took several seconds pause before working again. I assumed a control module was doing some wiring/resistance checks before deciding all was OK. So I suggest - check your bulbs and /or...

I had exactly the same issue last year with my D2 TD5 Auto; it was the inside of the pipe collapsing as described above, from turbo to intercooler (the one with a metal joiner). Could not see anything wrong from the exterior inspection, but take the pipe off & a big flap was intermittently...

I think 255/65 16 is about an inch wider than standard size, so maybe that's the real cause of the noise issue? On my D2 I put General Grabber AT3 (235/70 16 on the original standard alloys). I'm about 12k miles into their 50k life-expectancy & they still have 12mm tread-depth. Almost all...

Hi New Member here :mexicanwave: We've had 4 Rovers (a 213 honda-engined, 2x216 honda-engined[still got one] and a 827Sterling honda-engined) but this is our first Land Rover (D2 td5 auto; wish it had the 2.7honda-engine, but never mind) If money was no obstacle I'd have a big v8 petrol RRC...