Do what everyone else does.... :vb-groan2: try ebay.de for some used ones... (?)

Mine is OK, starts+ runs+ stops + reliable, happy to go anywhere in it 👍 133k miles Auto, no oil or water leaks, everything works including standard EGR... :cool:

I agree it would probably sell more easily at around £1,500 to £2,000 (how same age defenders etc sell for 5x more beats me). At 25+yrs you can't realistically expect to get back what you pay-out keeping it roadworthy, safe and reliable. So spending £2k on a chassis fix does not add to the...

@Lindsay3107 - I've had my TD5 since 2018 and have not replaced the remote's battery yet, so they can last a long time - but as you don't mention it, have you tried replacing yours?

Your figures are around 18mpg. Whether that's OK depends on your usage / journeys, I reckon... If you're driving through fields in "low", 18mpg would be quite good ? Mine is 2001 td5 auto, completely standard, EGRincl, std wheels+tyres, no lift, no chiptune. It stays in "high", is properly...

Work needed on bonnet, windscreen, slave cylinder/clutch / transfer box / exhaust..... But what's an 18yr-old broken disco worth? £700 to you, but in reality ... - A sensible offer will come from the scrappie who will collect... They have the time and experience to make a bit of money...

Don't breathe-in battery acid fumes.... google that. o_O 14.76v is OK when bulk-charging a drained battery, but ideally - At some point it should drop to around 13. 3v and trickle / float charge at a lower rate. If it isn't, maybe something is wrong with either the battery or with the charge...

Used to notice that smell from car exhausts when they first introduced catalytic converters (mid 1990's)- some were worse than others. Never seem to get that any more... Does your truck have a catalyst box? might be damaged, maybe delete it?

Same symptoms as my D2 TD5 Auto. Needed a new starter motor & since done, starting is instant.

Depends if you remove it for them or will they have to do that too - e.g. how many bolts snap...like egr connector, exhaust downpipe, turbo shield etc & have to be drilled/tapped etc o_O :vb-groan2:

I know that You know that We all know.... ( what A disco looks like ) but... :ttiwwp:

See if you can locate it in here, and give us an update... https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232

No carpet, so the leaked-in water could leak-out too... We moved from town to the middle of nowhere in 1972, and at age 16 I got a lift in a farmers newish Landie (thinking it must have been a series 3 ?) & loved it and Landies generally, ever since. Don't remember it being noisy at all ...

US gallons are smaller than UK gallons...

Parking in a garage or under a cover won't stop rust. Being covered when wet will keep it wet for longer = more time for the rusting process. Kept in the open / outside in the wind & sun and lower humidity air, will dry-out quicker. Mud inside chassis will stop it drying out / keep it wet and...

Yes I made a cardboard template and luckily had a big enough piece of metal with a bend already in it, so got a nice clean edge and was able to get a good fit on my first attempt. And it was done with my £60 gasless Aldi mig - very happy with that machine !

Here's one of the n/side rust just after I got the liner off and before I turned one hole into 3... :vb-groan2: Aaand then I just had to remove the sill covers to see a little hole which turned into this - Then into This - Still Blew-through & had more work to fix & dress it, then...

Mine (o/s) was partly hidden by underseal but was squishy & noted by tester would need doing before next one. The n/s was solid, so I just cleaned & recoated it. They didn't see the top inners holes, being hidden behind the plastic liners, holed on both sides; looks like the plastic rivet holes...

The trouble with "after" shots is, if you've done it right, there's nothing to see... Having said that, here are my "after" shots (nothing to see here, folks)...:cool: o/s bulkhead to inner arch joint, looking upwards (below brake servo) same but looking at it level o/s bulkhead to inner...

Doesn't DVLA have to inspect a vehicle / do an IVA before giving it Q plate? Vehicle checker ( https://car-check.co.uk/check/Q695JWU ) says the engine is 2286cc (10J ?) , so the DVLA still has wrong details as the photos do show a TD5 engine. I believe the Q makes it ineligible for the 40+year...