You'll have to loosen the sub frame bolts to drop it a bit to get the cradle out/in, best done with a empty tank.

Hi mate, sorry to see/ hear about the metal worm problems 😢. I can't believe for vehicles that aren't cheap to buy new LR, knowing what these type of use vehicles will potentially be used for, they couldn't go a bit further with rust prevention D1's body/D2's chassis/ D3&4's with what you're...

Funny, mine did that a few years back except it hadn't been moved for a day or two 🤔

Hi,on the face of it that sounds normal. Once you put new oil in it I would do 500 miles then change again to give it a decent flush if you don't know the service history. I think the IRD takes about 0.9 of a litre on changes.

I suppose it must be difficult to keep the weight down with conversions given they weren't designed for electrical perpulsion in the first place. I didn't think to ask if the series & defenders on display were heavier than std once converted 🙄, next time...... Still amazed at what you've achieved 🙌.

I wonder if that's the case for most ICE to EV conversions ? At the Goodwood Revival the other weekend there were a couple of stands who were displaying their EV conversion wares, not cheap I might add.

Wow, thanks for that, I didn't think of going for a metal alternative. Like you, I found some VW group bits that were similar but took 30mm hoses. I'll look to get one of those for piece of mind & take it to my son as he now has it, thanks again.

Nice work 👏 I wish I could find that larger tee in my post #2 for mine, I'll look at Newbury LR auto jumble 🤞.

Welcome to the asylum. As said bit of a rare beast but it looks a nice example. It will be worth draining the IRD oil before you splash out on props/VCU & bearing hangers. Make sure you undo the fill plug FIRST (before draining) using a single hex socket as the fill plug rounds off very easily...

13 year old original post 🤣🤣

Not sure I'll ever understand LR's parts list 🤣🤣, as the part you linked should only fit upto the end of MY2002. My 2004 TD4 c/no started 4A so I'm thinking your 05 should start 5A & should use the PCH118134 as that's for c/no's 3A0 onwards (which is the correct hose for my old 04). So confusing🙂.

Hi, what year/model is your one ? Sorry just looked at your 1st post again, looks like pre facelift.

Found this https://images.app.goo.gl/D4PUscxmWA3uCL659

If it's the one in the pic then I certainly didn't have any luck finding one, it only comes with the hoses as far as I could gather. Mine had a small crack where one of the larger hoses pushes on but luckily it's been OK 🤞. I'm off to Newbury LR spares day next Sunday so I'm going to look for...

Cracking work going on there 👏

Unfortunately don't know if it actually died (but I flipping hope it did) & I couldn't stop as I was on my way to Hereford to see son/granddaughter (& my old FL1 which is still going great 🙂). I got the lamps from Newbury LR spares day last year so looks like I'll be paying it another visit next...

Gutted, pheasant flew out of the hedgerow & hit the D2's driving lamp & broke the lens :mad: only taken me 4 yrs to find two decent lens for the ones that were on it when I got it :vb-bomb:

Probably a case of telling the vehicle it has heated rear seats, assuming there isn't another module/control unit to fit.

Ir was an option on D2's but for most markets, my 2001 UK D2 has it fitted & the rear passengers (+ the dog in the 'boot' like it) 🙂. On D2's the rear A/C unit is behind the N/S boot liner.

Just a simple blanking plate will do & costs nothing to make (if you have a drill/grinder/hacksaw). Also mot inspectors can't see the EGR has been 'adjusted' as all the original stuff stays in place !