It's one of those "could be anything" things. Give the thing a good degrease and see if there's further leaks. But could just as well be something at the front with a rattling bearing. The last "odd noise" on mine turned out to be the IP itself. Who knows why. It was still working fine, but...

Just saw this on facehook. Absolutely nothing to do with me, so don't pay with friends and family or anything like that. Remember there's a £50 (or somthing) re registration charge also.

It's not the phone but the android version. We have an aincient moto (g4 I think) in the glove compartment. The author of the gap software sent us a slightly older version of the software that will run on that too. (We use it for error stuff so don't need the cutting edge stuff) But yeah...

....when I get my act together, that section on mine will be part of the wet room. (Mine is a lhd, so I need the window on the rhs clear, but am ok to push the bulkhead right up to behind the driver on the lhs)

It would have had a B4 eberspacher. If yours is a tdi now, then a d2 or Chinese clone will work. There's ducting through the bulkhead. The louvered panel on the other side is the input and then the air runs through rectangular section in the bulkhead (so far as I remember - it's been a long...

It's still here a long with all the other stuff I should put more effort into shifting. You don't want any disco parts also, do you? A 101 starting handle? A load of hardcore?

I wanted a 110 van. We planned to have a child so my partner "forced" me to get a csw. Many years later the 110 is kind of the road most of the time, and we have a 4yr old. It's worth watching some videos of landrovers ending up on their rooves before going too far. I mean everyone has seen...

...basically fix the thing you know, without any doubt, will stop it running, and, if that's fixed, then start looking at other things. But there's little point looking elsewhere first, unless you're considering scrapping the job.

There's zero point in messing about with timing belts, timing, compression, headlights or whatever if there's no fuel coming out of the injector lines. Time could be in, out, shake it all.... Compression could be great or rubbish. It's all irrelevant with no fuel coming out of the injector lines.

Thank you for giving a conclusion. So often people don't bother to post a follow up when they have it working again.

Get a gasket, scan it, use a trace function, and then, just to be safe, check a couple of dimensions. I'm doing exactly the same with another 300 gasket currently.

Refreshingly lacking in adverts all over the place. No doubt they will return to reduce functionality in the same way as previously... (but it would be nice if they didn't)

When you look at the difference in cost between lanoguard and fluid film, you then start to see how lanoguard fund their huge advertising campaign. Then you get curious as to what the difference there is between them and look at the COSHH sheets and realise you can buy lanolin and naptha at a...

Doesn't the damper pretty much just hide issues rather than cure them? I've been though similar with the 110 a couple of weeks ago. Main issue was a loose bearing but I did some other joints at the same time.

I would suggest removing the modification (which will probably make no difference) then working out what got "broken", fix that, then re-install the mod! Theyre not as cheap as they used to be, but that UNI-T company make a low current DC clamp meter that's great in tracking down stuff like...

Who, who has ever welded a rusty landrover, would be able to give an accurate time scale on the job before the prep had begun? If someone gives a fixed figure on time (and hence money) they will either over quote to protect themselves or, when the job turns out worse than they (effectively had...

As above, how sure are you that it's the IP? I mean you may be certain, but, if you are not, my money would be on something else!

Do yourself a favor and get a sensible landrover. My partner got recovered last week by the rac in our fl2... Clutch slave cylinder. Subframe out. Gearbox out. Significant bill as I don't have a lift so will be paying someone else... Defender also broke the week before. Transfer box...

Thank you. Ive kind of tried that though : ( From the photos ive looked at, even if you split the alloy casting, you cant really get access to the back of the thing to get it out. The damage to the top of it that you can see in my photo is me trying to whack it (rotate it) with a chisel. Here...

Anyone got any smart ideas about dealing with this? You can see ive given it a fair whacking (after days of GT85) and still no rotation. Currently wondering about TIG'ing some box across the top of it and levering it around that way. Normally the heat from the weld breaks the corrosion bond...