Also clean all earths (battery to chassis and chassis to engine/gearbox. If you haven't already done so, run a new earth from battery to engine/gearbox.

Engaging diff-lock shouldn't make it go out of high or low range. The lever itself may be fouling on something- enough to move it forward or backward and disengage drive.

Yes. There are a few bed-wetters on here who flourish the card and are flummoxed when it doesn't work.

1. Body tub cappings.

Yer but.....I int a poooofy poof.

I use the trolley jack handle to lever the ball joint up into the taper and tighten the nut with a socket. I int got no pooooofy impact gun.

The ball joint taper locks it firmly in place, not the nut.

No, but people get upset when you say truths and play the racist card in a desperate attempt to stop you.

Thank you for warning us you were about to make a racist comment.

Caveat emptor. If you go to buy a reconditioned engine you get none of the ancillaries with it. The engine is just the sump, block, head and it's internals.

It's the busiest because of all the grooming going on.

Surely you should fear the doors fallin often and being groomed by @Hippoo for jolly naughty botty pranks.

Oh. Maybe it is myfirstl322 then.

It looks nothing like @myfirstl322.

Zoom in and read the label.

Or you might find them to be weirdos, losers and sexual predators. You have been warned!

Stop solenoid on the f.i.p.

So it's really urgent that someone comes out immediately to your house at 9.30pm on a Saturday night to sort it?

Fair enough. Though why anyone would want to go to any main french city is incomprehensible. Much nicerer in small rural villages.

Wow, who knew my petrol motorbike with a crit air 4 sticker in the screen is actually a diesel! Crit air is to do with emissions. Look at your V5 for co² g/km and cross reference it. If there is no figure then you will probably be crit air 4.