Yeh that's right. I've used then before and after that mistake and they've been fine. Its a long way down here (from anywhere!), so flights aren't cheap, but its a lovely place.

As you say, most offroad stuff is relatively low speed which won't harm. A lot is on or near lock though and a lot where traction may have been lost which will eventually harm. A lot is in low gear and plenty of gas I'd have thought that would mean high torque which might also cause eventual...

Wouldn't be the first time something like that has happened. I ordered a load of stuff from LRDirect for my F1, including brake shoes. They sent a set (IIRC) for a D3 park brake. To their benefit, they didn't quibble. Apologised for their mistake and sent out the correct part same day...

I'm not the one who decided to call the title "Damsel in distress". Obviously gender humour only works 1 way.

Better?

How the feck would she know that? Ask reasonable questions. What colour is it?

You don't hear of the UJs needing replacement much. However, a number of years ago, I went and had a look at an F1 that was for sale cheap. The bloke was quite keen to let me know that it had just had new UJs on the prop shaft... not quite so keen to tell me that the gearbox had lost 3 gears...

Was this the CV on the prop shaft going front to back, or 1 of the drive shafts going to a wheel?

The window won't go up because it thinks the door is open. There is a sensor in the door locking mechanism that tells the 'computer', which controls these things, if the door is open (think its a/the blue plug) - it will likely ether be faulty or the mechanic forgot to plug the wire back in.

It won't help!

Out of interest, was the £60 for the tyre or tyre and fitting/balancing?

Going by what people report, that doesn't sound to far off the mark.

Suppose first thing to check are any diagnostic codes. Plenty of F1 L Series engines killed by droped aux belts taking out the cambelt.

If there is no knowledge of the core plugs on here, it might be worth getting a price from a garage. The mechanic at work always amazes me at how simple he can make what appears a really complicate job. They might look at it in a different way and maybe shifting a bit or jacking up the engine...

I can't help, but good luck. Hope you can get it sorted. Ultimately, worst case is an engine swap, dunno how much that would cost, but the most it would take a garage is 2 days. I suppose that is the time it would take to remove and refit you're engine and replace the core plug while it is...

When you were braking was there a thumping noise/action going on? Same with the off roading. You really need to get the codes read or you're just guessing. If you don't want to get your own reader, take it to the chap, ask him the read the codes, let you know what they are and clear them...

With the Amigos lit, I doubt the functions are working properly. If the ABS is reporting a fault with a wheel and the sensor is replaced but the codes come back after clearing... then the sensor fitted was faulty, the wrong sensor was used (there are a couple of types used on F1) or the wiring...

I don't think there has been discussion on here about different diff ratios. I'm pretty sure they are all the same. The discussion has been about different ratios in IRDs. I don't know if we have any definitive information on this or whether it is old wives tales, but the 2000 model year had...

Exactly. I'm not sure why they are all the wrong size. If you get the same one, it'll be the same one, surely? Dunno about coding to the car's other systems - that could be a mine field if it is coded. Might mean a visit to a stealer who will charge the earth to do it... if they can be bothered.

The timing on the 1WUT does sound rather long, it is definitely in the region of "think its time to change". If you've been driving on mismatched tyres, its just as well the VCU wasn't totally goosed as it would have trashed your IRD as well as diff. However, you don't really know what damage...