V

Veslav

New Member
Hello
I've had this problem for more than 3 years on my Freelander 1 L314 diesel manual
abs and tc light on but the abs and tc are working just fine
It all started with three amigos abs tc and hdc, fixed the hdc by soldering the wires under the shifter then hdc went out, took it to the mechanic he said right front sensor was bad, changed that and then he said the same sensor was bad and wanted to charge me double so he can buy an original sensor, pretty sure he wanted to scam me and i refused
After that the abs and tc light are on(also while driving) and no hdc
Abs and tc work just fine and hdc too
I have read every forum about the amigos and i still cant find my problem

I just don't get it what's wrong with it
Any help is appreciated 🙂
 
Hi,

Any fault code ?

Generaly can be :
Bad brake sensor or wrongly installed brake sensor.
Bad ABS sensor or its wire.
 
Have you changed the brake pedal switch?
Thread on this literally today…

www.landyzone.co.uk

2 Amigos [Solved]

Already posted about this previously but issue remains. 55 plate Freelander TD4 TC/HDC lights on dash. Have replaced brake light switch twice. Checked all earth points around car. All fuses OK. Brake lights work. All connections sprayed with contact cleaner. Ran a diagnostic on a Topdon...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
With the Amigos lit, I doubt the functions are working properly.

If the ABS is reporting a fault with a wheel and the sensor is replaced but the codes come back after clearing... then the sensor fitted was faulty, the wrong sensor was used (there are a couple of types used on F1) or the wiring to the sensor is faulty.
 
Freddie17 said:
Have you changed the brake pedal switch?
Thread on this literally today…

www.landyzone.co.uk

2 Amigos [Solved]

Already posted about this previously but issue remains. 55 plate Freelander TD4 TC/HDC lights on dash. Have replaced brake light switch twice. Checked all earth points around car. All fuses OK. Brake lights work. All connections sprayed with contact cleaner. Ran a diagnostic on a Topdon...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
Nope I haven't did that but how do you know it's bad?
 
GrumpyGel said:
With the Amigos lit, I doubt the functions are working properly.

If the ABS is reporting a fault with a wheel and the sensor is replaced but the codes come back after clearing... then the sensor fitted was faulty, the wrong sensor was used (there are a couple of types used on F1) or the wiring to the sensor is faulty.
Click to expand...
I tested the abs on one road i did a 60 km to 0 brake test and the wheels don't lock up, traction control works while off-roading
 
Veslav said:
I tested the abs on one road i did a 60 km to 0 brake test and the wheels don't lock up, traction control works while off-roading
Click to expand...
When you were braking was there a thumping noise/action going on? Same with the off roading.

You really need to get the codes read or you're just guessing. If you don't want to get your own reader, take it to the chap, ask him the read the codes, let you know what they are and clear them. Then when the lights come back on, which may be straight away, get them to read them again.
 
Veslav said:
Nope I haven't did that but how do you know it's bad?
Click to expand...
Well without a code reader you’ll struggle to diagnose, but the brake pedal switch is a known culprit, as explained by Andy in the Fred I linked.
See if you have the old version fitted to your F1, if so, for £35 it’s worth a shot.
 
GrumpyGel said:
When you were braking was there a thumping noise/action going on? Same with the off roading.

You really need to get the codes read or you're just guessing. If you don't want to get your own reader, take it to the chap, ask him the read the codes, let you know what they are and clear them. Then when the lights come back on, which may be straight away, get them to read them again.
Click to expand...
I will just take it to a rover mechanic to read the codes and then change the faulty thingy
 
Freddie17 said:
Well without a code reader you’ll struggle to diagnose, but the brake pedal switch is a known culprit, as explained by Andy in the Fred I linked.
See if you have the old version fitted to your F1, if so, for £35 it’s worth a shot.
Click to expand...
I think it's an old switch I'll get a new one when i have free time
 
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