It's actually quite hard to overheat a series petrol - I've driven one for miles with a big hole in the radiator with no issues. Is the engine running lean and producing too much heat? Are you sure the thermostat is working properly and opening fully? Does it run cool if you take it out? Are...

Red/blue will be a feed from the headlight switch, red/yellow will be a feed to the foglights, they should attach to the back of a foglight switch and there should be a spare black wire going to a warning light. That's if you've got foglights. Gets a bit more complicated if there's front fogs as...

It's just something else to break...... They didn't call Joe Lucas the Prince of Darkness for nothing.....

You can put almost any battery in a series petrol, as long as it will fit in the tray! That one will do nicely....

Check fuel tank - it's right under the seat. The fuel pipe goes under the floor and behind the bulkhead, it's plastic on mine. Look for leaks at the carb body joint. Check the pipes on any emissions control system that's fitted. Blowing exhaust should be obvious - you'll hear it!

Could well be timing gear - I had a tensioner sprocket that failed and made some odd noises. I think they're aluminium.. You could check the rollers for ovality but tappets always seem to be noisy on the 2.25.

Blue smoke is oil. black smoke is diesel. Grey smoke is??? Could be blow back past the rings - which could well be gummed up. A bit of additive in the diesel plus some decent runs may well improve things.

Um, whatever fits. Mine are held in with self tappers.

The land rover book has drawings of the back of the clocks with the wiring connections and colour codes - it'll be useful!

£5 for a battery cable? Let's have a look in the spares box...... Welcome to the wonderful world of series wiring bodges. You'll need a wiring diagram and the drawings of the back of the dashboard..... Good luck!

Sounds like a leaky valve. Mine leaked less if it was kept fully open but I replaced it in the end.

Result! LZ strikes again! Pleased to hear you've got it fixed. It's obviously too late to tell you about the remote bleed nipple mod......

Pop out a spark plug, rest it on the block and turn the engine over when it's getting a bit dark - you should see a fat and temporally extended spark. If that's OK take the fuel pipe off the carb and turn the engine over - is there a good spurt of fuel? No? - check the filters in the pump and on...

The hole in the wing is the heater fan inlet. Apart from the door hinges it all looks pretty right. If you're interested ask for the chassis number - you can double check the age using it.

12V Miniature Buzzer | Maplin That should fix it. Wire between the output of the flasher relay and earth.

Hmm, you could take the inspection plate off and flush it out with brake cleaner but you run the risk of removing the lubricant from the release bearing and clutch fork. If the worst case scenario is taking off the gearbox you'd probably replace the clutch in its entirety anyway so it might be...

You'll find the shaft has broken at the diff end - there's a weak spot there. It means you can remove the shaft with the drive member and remove the broken bit with the diff. Replace both shafts 'cos if one has fatigued and snapped the other will soon follow. Remove the diff, clean out all the...

Yup, learned that one the hard way, broke a driveshaft on a hill in the town centre, had to let the vehicle roll back against the kerb so I could get out and engage the freewheel hubs. Plenty of threads about driveshaft replacements on here. You'll have to count the splines on the shaft to get...

From how far up did you drop it??? If it broke then you probably didn't want to fit that one anyway. If you fit new seals take the cylinder apart, clean it thoroughly, inspect it very carefully then reassemble in a clean environment. And I mean clean.

If the condenser is short circuit or the points have closed up them the coil may well be a bit warm. Go electronic - if it turns out to be fuel related you'll at least have good spark!