ER1C

Well-Known Member

• Apr 28, 2015

• #1

I would like some advice,

1984 88 Series 3. It has sat for a looooooong time in a museum until I had her.

Originally once started clouds of horrid smoke would pump out constantly.

I have sorted out the valve timing, sorted out the Engine/Cam timing, sorted out he Injection Pump timing and these are all fine now.

The good news is she now idles with no smoke at all and if I rev hard, she also doesn't smoke.

However when going up a hill the smoke (grey) is considerable. I have done all filters, it has an odd smell about it, just acrid. I possibly could hear a chattering from he engine but wasn't sure if that was a normal Series rattle ?

A. Its sat for so long it just needs running to burn off the crud in the cylinders

B. there is something else ?

Happy to hear thoughts. I did hope my compression testing kit from my Defender would help but as the heater plugs bolt onto the engine rather than screw in it wont.

I have little history but some folk said, you just need to flog it until its up to temperature and burns off all the rubish.. I am happy to do this but just wanted a sanity check first.

I think my second run last night was slightly less smokey than the first to be honest.

 

oxides

Well-Known Member

• Apr 28, 2015

• #2

Blue smoke is oil. black smoke is diesel. Grey smoke is??? Could be blow back past the rings - which could well be gummed up. A bit of additive in the diesel plus some decent runs may well improve things.

 

Land Raver

Well-Known Member

• Apr 28, 2015

• #3

I'm assuming it's a diesel. I get the similar acrid smell until the engine is warm, although I don't get the smoke under load you mention.

I found mine burns very noticeably cleaner by using a generous dose of Millers diesel fuel additive. Others have reported similar using the Millers.

Ultimately you may need to adjust the pump timing but I would run it for a few weeks first and see how things settle before adjusting anything.

Simple things first....service with 20w/50 oil, change fuel filter and inspect to ensure that the air filter is clean and the butterfly mechanism on the intake opens fully when booting it, allowing sufficient air to fuel ratio. Worth checking / adjusting tappets too. If it's been in a museum it may just have been started and idled periodically so need a good run.

 

Last edited: Apr 28, 2015

ER1C

Well-Known Member

• Apr 29, 2015

• #4

Thanks Chaps... the difficulty is running it without an MOT.. I will perhaps just try round and round in a field. I would assume pump timing if off would show when idling ? All oil/filters etc are brand new.

 

samc88

Drivels spiritual representative

• Apr 29, 2015

• #5

Could always stick it on axle stands and drive it? Will give you the chance to check all gears then without having to go on the road

 

trax

.

Events Planner

• Apr 29, 2015

• #6

probably unburnt fuel. could be sticky injectors. is it worse when cold than full temp?

 

ER1C

Well-Known Member

• Apr 29, 2015

• #7

I don't think there is a lot of difference to be honest, as its only under load I figured I needed it to be under load to clear the crap out ? Will idling be just as good ?

As i said reving high or normal running is clean as a whistle...Maybe I will just idle her for an hour or 2... The chap I had her from said he ran her for a couple of hours but the timing was off, the thermostat didn't work and she overheated in 2 mins when I tried her out. So I suspect she hasnt been up to temp for an awfully long time.

 

trax

.

Events Planner

• Apr 29, 2015

• #8

idling won't do much imo

the pump at the limit of its adjustment?

it was a bit of a pita to set my old 2.25d up. you'd be surprised the difference a little turn of the pump would make.

mine was gutless on hills, due to lack of compression and i wanted to change the engine anyway.

i'd be tempted to bung it in for the mot and see what it fails on. see if they can do a compression test for a few quid when it's there to rule any issues with that out.

that way you can give it a good blat to and from the mot place and have a list of known stuff to work from.

 

ER1C

Well-Known Member

• Apr 30, 2015

• #9

I can adjust the pump more, as stated its freshly done so bang in the middle..... I assumed as it wasn't smoking on idle it wasn't the pump is that wrong ?

Any guesses as to if it would need advancing or retarding.. and which way is which again.

 

trax

.

Events Planner

• Apr 30, 2015

• #10

ER1C said:

I can adjust the pump more, as stated its freshly done so bang in the middle..... I assumed as it wasn't smoking on idle it wasn't the pump is that wrong ?

Any guesses as to if it would need advancing or retarding.. and which way is which again.

Click to expand...

clockwise to advance iirc.

if this is new and not run for a while, i'd hold off and give it a long hard run first. might unstick/clog any injectors and burn off crud

 

ER1C

Well-Known Member

• May 1, 2015

• #11

cheers, got her up to temp and went up and down a hill last night about 50 times followed by 3 miles up hills (naughty)..... Definitely better. but still shedloads in 4th... But then again I have never been in 4th before.

How long would smoke take to clear normally ?

 

Land Raver

Well-Known Member

• May 1, 2015

• #12

Job to say really. If you're sure the air filter is clean and the pipe not restricted (can sometimes look fine from outside but break up inside restricting flow) then perhaps try marginally adjusting the pump. I wouldn't worry about smoke when cold, they all do that sir - and stink It's the smoke at higher revs you need to be more concerned with for mot as you're probably aware. Does the engine sound ok and start easily?