Propshaft UJ? Although I'd describe it as more of a rhythmic tinkle.... Time to get underneath, lift a wheel turn a few bits around and have a listen and a good feel for any play in the drivetrain.

Seized diff? Were the brake drums hot? could it be a seized brake? brake master cylinder not releasing properly? Possibly seized transfer box. Last time I seized a rear diff the vehicle wouldn't move at all - had to remove rear propshaft and both driveshafts then drive it on the fronts. Also had...

You'll find the manuals and parts books with the various variants here http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/

Depends on the landy - my 3 is an early one with no o ring, a felt washer and a steel washer between the nut and the flange.

Do all that and it won't be a series! - go buy a Defender instead....

As if a series steering lock is going to stop any self respecting car thief....

Try looking near the base of the oil filter for the oil pressure switch. The charge light is wired from the fusebox pre fuse/post ignition switch. There should be volts on the white wire at the bulb when the ignition is on. The brown/white wire goes to the small terminal on the alternator. If...

I've got a petrol S3 with no steering lock - looks original too. I think the lock was an optional security extra!

Is the fuel gauge reliable? If not try changing the voltage regulator behind the clocks. Backflush the rad, check the thermostat is opening..

I've got an early three and I don't remember a spacer behind the bearing last time I replaced a seal - it's not in the S3 manual I've got either, although it's in the parts book. Perhaps mine was embedded in the swivel so I didn't notice it? Could you be trying to fit two at the same time?

....and if studs go right through castings, try some threadlock on the stud - after thorough degreasing.

I've always found there's ways out for the oil past the gaskets on a landy. 0ld age, abuse and average precision engineering all contribute. A good smear of blue hylomar on both sides of gaskets has always been my solution.

Tracking should be a toe in of about 2mm difference between front and rear of the wheels - it's in the manual. Slacken the locknuts on the track rod and rotate the track rod to shorten or lengthen it. If you still have wander check the damper for play and stiffness - it may have run dry - and...

Make sure you have your thumbs beside the fingers - not around the handle - feel for the compression - about 6 o'clock if I remember correctly - then a sharp pull upwards. It won't work on a totally dead battery because you need enough life to generate a spark and the alternator won't do much...

Glue the cork gasket to the rocker cover with contact adhesive - evo stick or similar - 'cos it's got an annoying habit of tucking under and disappearing into the rocker chest.

Playing around with the idle mixture won't fix the problem. First of all make sure the ignition system is working properly and the ignition timing is correct. Are you getting much black smoke out of the exhaust? If so try replacing or rebuilding the carb, watching out for any body warping that...

http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/

Leave it long enough and lichen will start to grow - I think it looks quite attractive and you can feed reindeer with it. Otherwise, Jeyes fluid is good. Does tend to leave your landy smelling like a public toilet though....

Does the pedal come up as fast as it goes down? If it's stiff both ways it could well be the pedal pivot. The clutch is heavy on the series but I'm not sure I'd use the word "stiff" to describe it. If you crack the slave cylinder bleed nipple there should be virtually no resistance in the pedal.

Lift up the back - the wheel that goes round on its own with no resistance and a grindy noise will be the one with the broken shaft. Or pull the shafts out. The shafts and diff will have to come out to get all the bits out anyway...