The fluid is silicone liquid. It comes in a number of viscosities. 10000 - 30000 cst is the range that is suitable for FL VCUs. I bought it from a company in Sweden I don't remember the name of some years ago but I think any supplier of industrial chemical may be able to help.

To test the torque I bolt the output shaft i a vise and turn the input end with a spanner. To drain the silicone fluid one has to remove the tiny steel ball plugs on each side of the VCU's body. The holes will then have to be threaded to fit a plug. The fluid will seep out very slowly so one...

Done :) I put in a low friction VCU as well. I have been experimenting with different viscosity fluids and volumes in VCUs earlier and I had one unit that that is very soft. I can't feel it bite even driving in circles at full lock but it still gives plenty of rear wheel drive . :) And yes...

It is the front VCU bearing that is shot. The noise was easy to detect with the car lifted and running with second gear engaged.

When turning full lock it is less noisy than straight ahead. The car has rolled less than 90000 km and the VCU seems to work OK. But my first thing to do is to try it with the propshafts removed.

I still have my 'F, Morten :). And two Freelanders. I bought the last one yesterday, a 2000 Open Air with a leaking head gasket and a grinding noise somewhere in the drivetrain.

Anybody fitted the latest version of the MLS head gasket? MG Rover SAIC / MG Cars K Series Multilayer Head Gasket MLS | eBay

People do all sorts of crazy things for a hobby. I am not one of those who find pleasure in beating a ball with a stick to make drop into a hole in the lawn nor any other silly things that don't have a useful purpose . My question was addressed to those who might immediately recognize the...

I am indeed a well experienced DIY mechanic. And I do not intend to spend much money to get this car running sweetly. A new head gasket will set me back some 20 quid and the job will be done in an evening. BTW I intend to fit the new SAIC MLS gasket that comes without a head saver shim. As soon...

Today I bought a very cheap 2000 Open Air 1.8. It leaks coolant from the cylinder head joint and it also has a drivetrain noise that is inversely speed related. When moving very slowly the noise is worst and it disappears when the speed rises. It is hard to tell where it comes from but I think...

My garage is heated, so I think that is not the reason. I'd better have the system refilled and hope this will wake it up :cool:

The belt is OK and the pulley is spinning. But the clutch does not engage, so the compressor shaft does not turn .

The air conditioning in my 2004 SE does not work. The indicator lamp on the A/C switch illuminates after I press it when the engine is running and the fan is blowing but the compressor's pulley clutch does not engage. Fuse no.4 in the engine compartment fuse box is OK :confused:

Depends on where in the circuit the bad earth is. Always a good idea to clean all connections, earthings also.

Earthing problem...?

Any time, DD3 :) Your garage or mine? If yours, you'll have to pay my ferry ticket :welcome2:

With both manifolds and the coolant rail removed it is fairly easy to fit the engine from below:

My 2004 SE petrol has as sensor fitted in the cam cover. It apparently reads the position of the exhaust camshaft. What does it use this signal for? Neither my MGF nor my previous (older) Freelanders have this..

The answer is "Yes":

Scuff marks in the cylinder show that the engine was not shut off immediately when the fault (whatever it was?) appeared: http://www.lrforum.com/forum/uploads/monthly_01_2013/post-1170-0-35000500-1357764850.jpg