:eek: The stat needs to be in place to seal the coolant elbow, it's a push fit and three M6 bolts to tighten. No stat or blank stat ring will cause a serious leak, so I'm guessing the mechanic never touched it

As above, weak spark due to dizzy cap contacts or a duff rotor arm, the resistor in the rotor arm can have hairline cracks in them, causing no spark or intermittent spark. Resistance can range between 600 - 700 ohms across the two contacts on the rotor arm, the higher the better Your fuel...

Have done the dozen 2x2 flag run myself, When the wheel arch is about to touch the tyre.....it's time to stop loading. personal best is 600kg payload and 275kg roof rack (custom made rack) but not at the same time?! Like all loads, you need to make sure they are secure and not going...

Payload is around 500kg so ten 2x2 at 45kg each, plus one or two more ;)

Fuel filter or fuel tank breather not venting properly?

Sounds like the stat is already removed, either that or a blanking ring fitted instead?

Did you remove the old thermostat at the back of the engine, when you fitted a new modified one? There is a blanking ring which is fitted in its place (standard stat with centre wax bulb removed) You can butcher the old stat, just cut out the centre (see post 4 in link below)...

one for the tratta boys, what type of tractor hitch is this ? Thanks

The jiggle valve should not cause any issues, its a simple design, if its sticking someone has bent the brass outlet or not cleaned the system (gunk/mayo/radweld) repeatedly squeezing the top rad hose should let you hear it rattling back and forward. Technically, it isnt needed on the FL1...

Just fix it and sell/exchange for a diesel, not worth the hassle exchanging looms and ECU

Removing the ball bearing puts a fair amount of coolant back into the expansion bottle

1. Schematic instructions of PRT fitted 2. Picture of RHS of exhaust manifold, just above engine serial numbers, note grey tab from multi layer steel head gasket after fitting ( LR part no. LVB500190 )

Ditto

use fine forceps or long reach tweezers tiny smidgen of grease to stick it to the valve shaft , it will burn itself off see homemade valve compressor in last post below (extra kudos for having the 16v head on the kitchen table)...

Thanks Freelaner

Happy New Year troopers I have stumbled across series IIa for sale Chassis no 241XXXXXXXD Trying to find original spec Thanks

check it again by reseting the timing and belt tensioner and turn by hand. If valves have gone head has to come off, might help you below: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/i-might-doing-how-remove-k-series-head-89600-4.html

These are standard LR accessories, hardly mods?

Not worried about insurance, more the thieving magpies. I cant source a sports mid section on its own, Rimmers only sell the mid pipe and backbox together. One could be fabricated, but costly from a custom/after market supplier

Peak power is at 2750rpm for K4 FL1, 3000rpm for K4 rovers and MG's Did LR tweak the MEMS, or have slightly different cam angles? I did ask this question on MG forums, but still remains unanswered.